The Fanny Bay Conservation Area is one of the highlights of Ships Peninsula. Located in Fanny Bay on Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Ships Peninsula is a small peninsula that juts out into Baynes Sound. It features a 2.5 km long walking trail through the tidal marsh and mixed forest of the Fanny Bay Conservation Area. The park is also the location of the remains of George Sawchuk’s (1927-2012) fascinating outdoor Forest Gallery. An additional .8 km section (one way) connects the dike with Ships Point road.
From the parking area at the end of Tozer Road, walkers access the Fanny Bay Conservation Area via a dike that separates salt marsh from the Cougar Creek estuary. This open stretch of trail provides excellent opportunities for bird watching. Numerous species of sparrows use the edge habitat. When the tide is high, shorebirds are pushed into close view from the elevation of the dike. Swallows glide over the tidal wetlands, catching insects over the salt marsh.
Fanny Bay Conservation Area Wetland
The conservation area encompasses a range of different ecosystems. A broad tidal salt marsh occupies an area between the dike and the higher elevation of Ships Peninsula. During periods of high tide, the drainage channel that runs beside the dike and salt marsh floods. At low tide, shore crabs, other marine crustaceans and snails gather in the water that remains. The dike has several large culverts that allow the water to pass from the estuary into the wetland and back out again.
The wetlands here are very productive. Aquatic insects breed in brackish pools of standing water. Swallows and fly catchers feed on the adult insects that hatch from the water. Observant birdwatchers can commonly see violet-green swallows and barn swallows over the tall grass of the salt marsh. In addition, at the forest edges, willow flycatchers call regularly. Less frequently seen birds like American goldfinch occur as well. The mix of wetland, hedgerow, and forest habitat supports a variety of different birds.
Several common salt marsh plants grow in the wetland protected by the dike including a number of grasses and sedges. Additionally, more specialized, salt-adapted, plants like American glasswort line the edges of the brackish water. Brilliant orange salt-marsh dodder, which has a parasitic relationship with American glasswort, grows here as well.
The Estuary at Ships Peninsula
From the top of the dike, spectacular views of the estuary and the main part of Vancouver Island are visible. Overall, the estuary is an expansive mix of mud, cobble, and gravel. Notably, this nutrient rich estuary is part of the larger Baynes Sound and is an important area for Canada geese, great blue herons, and diving ducks like scoters and bufflehead. Gulls and other birds gather here for the herring spawn. In early spring, driving up to the nearby government wharf and checking for California and Stellar’s sea lions during the herring spawn is recommended!
Forest Trail in the Fanny Bay Conservation Area
The trail through the conservation area is level and easy walking. This forest is mostly second growth and large red alder are common. Typical understory plants like salal, sword fern, and thimbleberry line the forest path. Conifers like red cedar mix with the deciduous trees. In wetter areas, hardhack is common. The trail follows the edge of the bay between Ships Peninsula and the main part of Vancouver Island. There is a strip of forest between the trail and the water which limits water access and views. Consequently, this trail is definitely a peaceful stroll through a quiet forest rather than a walk to a specific destination.
One of the most striking aspects of the trail is the lush growth of common horsetail (Equisetum arvense) along its edges. The horsetail is prolific and forms a soft boundary to the path. This plant has prehistoric relatives that were as tall as trees during the Devonian and Carboniferous periods 300 million years ago. It’s easy to imagine these ancient plants slowly encroaching on this magical trail while you walk through the forest!
Birders will appreciate the variety of species seen and heard along the trail through the conservation area. Willow flycatcher is frequently heard but rarely seen. Purple finch was a highlight and we got close looks at it. Forest birds were common. During the course of the walk chestnut-backed chickadee, red-breasted nuthatch, warbling vireo, yellow-rumped warbler, spotted towhee, and song sparrow were seen and heard. The trail passes through a mix of edge habitat and the combination of both open deciduous and darker coniferous forest resulted in a good number of birds added to the list.
Wacky Woods: George Sawchuk’s Forest Gallery
One of the unique aspects of the Fanny Bay Conservation Area is George Sawchuk’s Forest Gallery. Affectionally known as the “Wacky Woods,” this folk art gallery has not been maintained since Sawchuk’s death in 2012. Originally established in the forest behind Sawchuk’s house, the quirky sculptures are slowly returning to nature. While it isn’t as impressive as it once was, there is a quiet introspective feeling in the forest gallery.
In the tradition of Sawchuk’s whimsical art, a warning sign marks the beginning of what remains of the Forest Gallery. Rough trails leave the main path of the conservation area. These paths work through the forest to small clearings that display Sawchuk’s art work. While most of the sculptures have returned to nature, some remain. By walking through the narrow paths and discovering the fragments, it is possible to appreciate what the gallery once looked like.
Folk Art in the Fanny Bay Conservation Area
Sawchuk was an interesting artist. Originally working in construction and logging, an accident left him with a disability and a lot of free time. When he acquired a chainsaw, he saw an opportunity. In his words, “All of a sudden I had time, a saw, and a guaranteed income.” Over the years, Sawchuk modified trees and built interactive sculptures in the forest behind his house, creating a collection of art work that became his Forest Gallery.
Sawchuk often added text and quirky sayings to the pieces. The messages were rooted in nature and political commentary, usually with a keen sense of thoughtful humour. Some of the pieces had a religious message, others invited the viewer to interact physically with the sculpture. In addition, text prompted visitors to think about the connection between the object, nature and philosophical points of view.
Over time, between the 1970s and up to his passing in 2012, Sawchuk added to his forest gallery. Regularly, he used found objects like faucets, light switches, and other incongruous items in combination with living trees. Some of the sculptures were built directly into living trees. Many of the pieces included text. Tying the sculptures together were opinions about the church, state, and stewardship of nature. It is fitting that the remains of this forest gallery are accessible by way of the Fanny Bay Conservation Area.
Need to Know
The Fanny Bay Conservation Area is a quick and easy walk through a series of different ecosystems. Birders will appreciate the variety of habitats including wetlands, tidal mudflats and mixed forest. This is also an ideal, family-friendly walk. The trail is flat and suitable for most strollers. Young children are able to handle the total distance of around 2.5 km. Additionally, searching for the remnants of George Sawchuk’s Forest Gallery provides a destination and a sense of exploration. The trail starts from the parking area at the dike and travels to Highway 19A where it ends. You retrace your steps to return to the starting point.
Getting There
While there are three different access points to the Fanny Bay Conservation Area, the parking area at the end of Tozer Road provides a good starting place for this easy walk. From the Island Highway (19A), turn onto Ships Point Road. Follow Ships Point Road until you see Tozer Road on the left. Follow Tozer Road the entire length of Ships Peninsula. At the end of the road there is a small parking area. The trail begins at the yellow gate on the dike.
