Tucked away in the forested hills near Chemainus, Lower Banon Creek Falls is a quiet and rewarding destination for those willing to go a bit off the beaten path. Often overshadowed by its upper counterpart, the less dramatic Lower Banon Creek waterfall offers a striking cascade over layered mudstone. The waterfall is framed by mixed forest and features an array of wildflowers. With easy access, photogenic features, and fascinating geology, it is a worthwhile stop for hikers, nature photographers, and anyone curious about Vancouver Island’s rich natural history.
Early June is a good time to search out waterfalls on Vancouver Island. There is a small window of time while plants are producing green leaves and flowers, and before the long hot days of July and August arrive and water flow dries up. In winter, these falls are more impressive. However, it is difficult and unsafe to get close to them because of the increased flow of the Chemainus River.
An Old Access Road Walk to Lower Banon Creek Falls
Lower Banon Creek Falls is located just minutes from Chemainus, a small town on Vancouver Island’s east coast known for its murals and artsy charm.
From the parking area, a trail follows Grace Road West, an old access road alongside the Chemainus River. It is easy walking through shaded second growth forest. Introduced plants typical of disturbed areas mix with native plants associated with forests on Vancouver Island. Twinflower (Linnaea borealis) is common, as is Siberian miner’s-lettuce (Clayton sibirica). Forest birds like Townsend’s warbler, dark-eyed junco, and pine siskin are possible here.
The access road emerges into a parking area underneath a power line. This parking lot is also accessible by a gated gravel road that connects to Mt Sicker Road. By mid afternoon a few cars parked here but there were none in the morning. Buckshot damaged signage seems to suggest that this area might be a bit rowdy at times!
From here it is a short walk towards the river down a fire access road that parallels the power line. Plants that are common in this area are more typical of wetter, riverside Vancouver Island environments. Goatsbeard (Aruncus dioicus) grows alongside the access road. Near the end, the trail follows the power line down to a massive structure that moves Fortis Gas across the Chemainus River. When you see that, you’re getting close!
Mudstone Cliffs beside the Chemainus River
The trail ends at the banks of the Chemainus River. In early summer, the water levels are low but there are some deep pockets which would be ideal for swimming. There is a nice, fine gravel beach and the river is shallow and wide. An American dipper was foraging for caddisfly larva from rocks in the shallow part of the river. The high, mudstone cliffs at this location remind me of the cliffs on the Trent River and indicate that the area is likely excellent for fossil hunting. Water temperatures were refreshing. On a hot summer day, this would be a very popular place to be!
The Fossil Record
The layered cliffs near Lower Banon Creek Falls are part of the Haslam Formation. This geologic unit was deposited during the Upper Cretaceous period, around 85 million years ago. Dark, fine-grained mudstones laid down in the shallow marine environment are rich in fossilized life from that ancient sea. Many fossils lie high up on the steep canyon walls. Others are scattered in loose scree at river level or embedded in the rock itself. Many are preserved within rounded concretions.
The fossil record here offers a glimpse into a vanished ecosystem populated by molluscs, bony fishes, and giant marine reptiles. Some fossil finds, like clams and gastropods, resemble modern species. Others — notably ammonites, an extinct group of coiled-shelled cephalopods — highlight how dramatically life and ocean environments have changed over deep time. These remnants make the site a fascinating destination for amateur fossil hunters and geology enthusiasts.
Heteromorph ammonites (Bostrychoceras elongatum, Glyptoxoceras subcompressum), fossil seeds and cones, Inoceramid bivalves, spiny lobster (Linuparus vancouverensis), and crinoids (Uintacrinus sp.) have all been found here.
Crossing Over to Lower Banon Creek Falls
Once down in the bed of the Chemainus River it quickly becomes obvious that a closer look at the Lower Banon Creek Falls is tricky. This is especially true if you want to keep your feet dry since reaching the base of the falls involves crossing the river. This is best done with water shoes or sandals in early summer when water levels are manageable.
After some thought, I decided that it was worth getting my hiking boots wet. The next challenge was figuring out the most efficient way to cross the river which is quite wide at this point. It is worth noting that while the water wasn’t particularly deep, the rocks were slippery with algae. It is important to move slowly and carefully, especially when carrying camera gear — my tripod was useful for stabilization.
I crossed over downstream of the falls and was in water up to my knees at some points. On the way back, I crossed over upstream in an area with more boulders. This section had a deeper pocket and I ended up in water that was mid-thigh in depth. Pick and choose your route carefully!
Photographing the Falls
Lower Banon Creek Falls fans out in delicate ribbons across layered sedimentary rock, cascading in multiple tiers with a total drop of approximately 6 to 8 metres. The mudstone is distinctly layered and forms a smooth sheet of stone. The waterfall has carved out a small amphitheatre over time during high winter water flows. A wide plunge pool sits at its base—calm and shallow, ideal for wading or photographing reflections.
In early June, the creek has good flow with enough water to make things interesting. The water cascades over smooth mudstone shelves in a thin sheet before ending in pool. Streambank arnica (Arnica lanceolata) adds a splash of golden yellow to the rock face, growing in bright clumps along the moist ledges. The wet rocks are slick with algae and moss and, as a result, can be very slippery. It is possible to try different points of view for photographs by moving carefully on dry rock beside the waterfall. A small patch of violet (Viola sp.) was doing very well in the wet area of talus beside the base of the waterfall.
Technical Challenges
Although the waterfall is a simple double drop there are many different angles that a photographer can consider. A neutral density filter is crucial to get a slow shutter speed to blur the moving water, although similar images can be made with an iPhone using the Live/LongExposure method. Experimentation with shutter speed is important. Exposure times ranged from .8 of a second to 9 second long, and I used an Urth 512 (9-stop) ND filter to get that duration and I was often underexposing because the water was so bright. Unfortunately, I didn’t check my file settings and instead of creating images in .RAF format, the photographs were captured in .jpg. As a result, there was less latitude in adjustments to exposure when post processing. A tripod is necessary with exposure times in this range.
I tried a number of different compositions, using the flow of the water over the rock and the streambank arnica to anchor the scene. Unfortunately, the light was not ideal with a cloudless sky and wide ranges of exposure between sunlight areas and shadow. However, I was pleasantly surprised at how the bright and dark areas worked together. Although it would have been possible to get up to the pool formed by the first drop I decided that it wasn’t worth it because of the light conditions and the slippery, algae covered rock.
Need to Know
- Consider the Cranko Road access point for a pleasant walk through forest to the river. Note that there is another gated gravel road access with a parking area closer to the waterfall.
- Hiking boots aren’t required, running shoes are fine. I noticed a couple of people walking down in Crocs and sandals. If you want to cross the river to the falls, bring a pair of water shoes or sandals that can dry out quickly.
- Algae growth in the Chemainus River makes the rocks slippery and boulders can shift under foot. Use care if crossing the river to get a closer look at the falls.
- Water level will change with the season, assess whether or not it is safe to cross.
- Pack out everything that you bring with you, be aware that others use this place. Leave no trace, minimize your impact. Note that the Chemainus River is habitat for fish and aquatic insects. Avoid sunscreen in the water if possible.
- Recommended photography gear includes a tripod, ND filter and/or polarizing filter. An overcast day might produce better exposed images.
Getting There
Coming from Duncan or Chemainus, look for Mt Sicker Road. There’s a gas station and the Motherhen Barbecue Diner at this intersection. Turn on to Mt Sicker Road and follow it until it ends in T junction with Cranko Road. Turn right onto Cranko Road and follow it until it ends. You should see a yellow gate and a small parking area at the end of Cranko Road. Park here, making sure that you don’t block driveways.
Leave your car, walk along the old access road (Grace Road West) and make your way down to the river. It’s a fairly short walk, around 1000m from the parking area to the water.
