Island of Rainbows

The name Sointula, the Malcolm Island community of utopian origin off northern Vancouver Island, translates as ‘Place of Harmony’ – but it might equally be called ‘Place of Rainbows’. A frequency of rainbows of course means an abundance of rain, of which Malcolm Island receives over 150 cm annually – but the south facing shore of the island also captures the evening sun to create rainbows, as the clouds clear over Port McNeill opposite, across Broughton Strait.

The hyper-maritime climate is also indicated by the abundance of hemlock, spruce & cedar – Douglas Fir which grows in a drier climate is rare on Malcolm Island. Dense stands of second growth forest alternate with wet pockets of marsh, swamp and bog in the island’s interior.

Moody Forest

A gravel road runs the entire 24 km length of the island from the Pulteney Point Lighthouse on the west end to Donegal Head at the east. At Pulteney Point, Malcolm Island is at its closest point to Vancouver Island, and bears have been known to swim across from the Cluxewe River estuary north of Port McNeill. The north shore of Malcolm Island faces Queen Charlotte Strait, home of dolphins, humpback whales, and orca which use the beaches for rubbing.

First logged by Finnish settlers in the early 1900’s for homesteads around Sointula, the majority of the island was logged in later decades and continues to be logged today. Gravel roads provide access to high points of the island with views of the Coast Mountains, though the rapid growth of re-planted trees will soon obscure the view.
Two nature trails established within the last dozen years offer contrasting experiences of the island. The Beautiful Bay Trail, 5 km (one way) from Bere Point on the north shore, has been cut through a dense salal forest and downed trees from a windstorm that occurred just a couple of years after the trail was built. In calmer weather, sea birds including scoters, grebes, loons, harlequin, cormorant, pigeon guillemot, bufflehead, and red-breasted merganser should be common, as well as shorebirds such as dunlin and western sandpiper. A viewing stand near the start of the trail was constructed to offer views of orca off the rubbing beach.

Hemlock Varnish Shelf (Ganoderma tsugae) grows out of old stumps.

The 3.2 km (one-way) Mateoja Heritage Trail in the island’s interior passes through dense second growth hemlock, alternating with bogs with acid-loving plants and bizarre candelabra snags, which look like nature’s totems. Bald eagles perch on the snags and woodpeckers can be heard among the dead trees. Areas of mistletoe infestation have created small clearings in the woods. The trail passes the site of an old homestead, ponds and a marsh on the way to Big Lake – the local swimming hole, but not actually the biggest lake on the island!

Birding at Big Lake on Malcolm Island.

Among the colourful houses and weathered boat sheds of the town of Sointula itself, other birds are common around the quiet streets: Eurasian collared dove, rufous & Anna’s hummingbirds, savannah, fox, song, white-crowned, golden-crowned and house sparrows, house finches, and red crossbills. Ten years ago, a small but enthusiastic group of birders on Malcolm Island started an annual spring bird count at the end of April in the memory of Doug Innes, a teacher who retired to the Comox Valley and pursued research on the red-throated loon and Townsend’s warbler, both frequent on Malcolm Island. Several years ago a Lapland longspur, rare to the island, was seen on the count, and gleefully disputed by visiting birders from Port McNeill and the Comox Valley.

A ‘rainbow’ of birds seems to arrive the same weekend as the bird count: violet-green swallows join orange-crowned, yellow-rumped, black-throated gray, and Townsend’s warblers; as spring arrives on Malcolm Island.

Need to Know:

• For the utopian history of the island, check out ‘Sointula:Island Utopia’ by Paula Wild

About the Contributor:

Krista Kaptein is an intermittent hiker, naturalist, writer, & photographer based in the Comox Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of her interests can be found on her blog.

Seymour Narrows and the former site of Ripple Rock from the viewpoint.

A hundred years ago, the name of Ripple Rock evoked dread in the hearts of mariners, but today entices hikers to explore natural history as well as human history, on the Ripple Rock Trail. The stretch of water in Seymour Narrows, part of the Discovery Passage north of Campbell River, is famous as the site of the largest non-nuclear explosion in history: the 1958 demolition of the underwater rock, a deadly shipping hazard only 2.7 m below the surface at low tide.

The Ripple Rock Trail offers a bird’s-eye view of the famous passage, as well as reminders of the logging history of the area, and a diversity of natural history flora and fauna characteristic of the west coast.

One of the many spring flowers that can be seen on the Ripple Rock Trail is the White Fawn Lily (Erythronium oregonum).

Coming from the south, set your odometer to zero where the highway to Sayward crosses the Campbell River. The trailhead to Ripple Rock is at 16.5 km. North of the bridge, and a highway viewpoint at 10.5 km. offers a preview of the destination.

The Ripple Rock trail is about 4 km long one-way & will take about 1-1/2 hours at a steady pace to reach the high bluffs at the end. However, appreciating the spring flowers and birds, as well as investigating signs of other animal life on the way, can extend this outing to a longer hike, suitable for those of moderate fitness (with a bit of mountain goat required at the end!)

Roosevelt Elk prints can sometimes be found in the mud along the trail.

The first part of the trail through a hydro right-of-way may appear uninviting but there are already many signs of wildlife for an observant naturalist. New gravel and wood steps parallel a muddy path that reveals footprints larger than deer – probably elk. Common birds are prevalent – robins, towhees, song sparrows – but also among the trees, an elusive red-breasted sapsucker. The pink blooms of salmonberry attract buzzing rufous hummingbirds. Keen ears will also identify orange-crowned and yellow-rumped warblers at this time of year, in the brushy area of the estuary. Following the complex song of the ruby-crowned kinglet may result in a good view of these insect foragers in the lower trees. The trail descends to the marshy estuary of Menzies Creek where beavers have been busy gnawing trees and dam-building. Crossing the creek is an entertaining experience – the metal suspension bridge rocks and sways, amplifying footsteps. On the other side, a patch of old-growth with huge Sitka spruce shelters forest flowers. The typical west coast forest begins just beyond.

Salmonberry (Rubus spectabilis) can be found growing alongside the Ripple Rock Trail.

In April the spring flowers are at their peak throughout Vancouver Island, and this trail is no exception. Pink & white fawn lilies, yellow violets, trillium, bleeding heart, mimulus (monkeyflower), chocolate lily, and salmonberry bloom at intervals for the sharp-eyed photographer. In a couple of spots, the fawn lilies and bleeding heart grow on bluffs, allowing photos from below. Along the forested trail winter wrens sing every few hundred metres. The repetitive call of nuthatches, high trill of golden-crowned kinglets, chatter of flickers, and the even more rapid high chatter of a merlin can accompany the hiker. Shelf fungus on fallen logs may be mistaken for butterflies at first glance. The occasional pile of shredded cone bracts indicates the feeding spots of squirrels.

The remains of an old logging skid road.

Look carefully at the bridges – one actually crosses an old skid road used for conveying logs down to the water. High points along the trail provide views of the log booms in the bay as well as far-away mountains such as Mt. Albert Edward in Strathcona Park. Several beach accesses to Menzies Bay are worth exploring for low tide life, as is the sandy bay further along at Nymphe Cove. The trail then becomes more rugged and the last clamber up the bluffs requires caution to negotiate whether headed up or down. The final reward is a panoramic view north up Seymour Narrows, and east to Quadra Island, linked by causeway to Maud Island directly ahead.

Bring binoculars, as there will be gulls, cormorants, and other seabirds – or even a red-tailed hawk soaring against the forests of the other side. Maritime traffic of all kinds must pass through this narrow passage, which still has dangers – currents can reach 15 knots, and whirlpools can drag a boat to the bottom. Slack water is best for navigation, but for the most drama the tidal patterns are best viewed at high current when ripples, whorls, and whirlpools form. The passage can however appear quite benign if the difference between high and low tide is less than 6 feet. You may even spot hikers on the bluffs on other side (the Maud Island trail – but that’s another article!)

Need to Know:

• The trailhead parking area has a reputation for vehicle break-ins, so don’t leave valuables inside. On nice days there are plenty of other hikers on the trail, so less chance of bad luck.
• The final short bluff ascent may require some mountain goat footwork! Exercise caution. Nymphe Cove is also a good final destination for the less inclined.
• On your way you may wish to stop at the Campbell River Museum for more historical background.

Use the Google Map below to find the Ripple Rock Trail.

Click on the map to view a scaleable Google Map.

About the Contributor:

Krista Kaptein is an intermittent hiker, naturalist, writer, & photographer based in the Comox Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of her interests can be found on her blog.

The pale, fertile shoots of Giant Horsetail (Equisetum telmatiea) are visible for a short period in the spring.

During a recent visit to Sayward I happened upon a patch of giant horsetail rising from a roadside ditch. Strangely alluring, the pale brown wand-like fertile shoots appear in spring, followed shortly after by green, vegetative shoots. These anemic fertile shoots, which only last for a short period, are easily overlooked. Most of us are more familiar with the green vegetative shoots, which persist for much longer.

Horsetails have hollow, grooved stems with regular joints. Silica on the outer surface of the stem gives it a rough texture, rather like the surface of a nail file. A brownish sheath at each joint is rimmed by darker teeth, which are in fact the tiny leaves of the plant. Whorls of green “branches” fan out from between the joints. Horsetails have perennial underground horizontal stems (rhizomes), from which the shoots arise. For this reason they are often found in groups.

Whorls of "branches" emerge from the joints of Common Horsetail (Equisetum arvense).

Most species of horsetails prefer a wet location, and are often found in ditches, swamps, and banks of creeks and rivers. Common horsetail, however, is quite versatile and may spring up weed-like in abandoned fields, backyards, and sandy areas.

Though the green parts of horsetail can be toxic to livestock and humans, some First Nations peoples of the Pacific Northwest ate them in moderation as a spring vegetable. They were also used for polishing wood. Pioneers made use of the coarse surface of horsetails to scour out dirty pots. This is how one type of horsetail, the scouring-rush, got its name.

Horsetails are very ancient plants, and have been around for at least 300 million years. During the late Devonian and Carboniferous periods, low-lying tropical swamps and shallow seas covered much of Europe and North America. One of the most common swamp plants were large horsetail trees called Calamites, which grew to 18 metres in height, with trunks up to half a metre wide.

In the late Paleozoic period, droughts are thought to have caused the demise of this wonderfully weird tree. But smaller relatives of the Calamites survived, and the horsetails of today are remarkably similar to those of ancient times.

Horsetails are a unique group of plants. In the evolutionary scheme of things they are placed between simple, primitive plants like mosses, and more highly evolved flowering seed plants. Like mosses and ferns, horsetails produce spores. Like flowering seed plants, they have specialized tissues for conducting water and food through the stem. Plants with these tissues are generally called “vascular” plants.

Horsetail reproduction begins with a cone-like “strobilus” at the top of the plant. The cone is made up of rows of hexagonal spore-bearing structures. Each hexagon produces thousands of tiny spores. When the spores are shed, they start to grow into a new plant, which is either bisexual or male. Sperm are produced, which must swim through the water to female plants. Once fertilized, the plant will grow to maturity, starting the cycle over again.

Scouring-rush (Equisetum hyemale) showing the strobilus where spores are produced.

There are only about twenty species of horsetail in the world, all in one group, or genus, known as Equisetum. Ten species are found in BC, and six of these exist on Vancouver Island.

Two frequently found species, giant horsetail (Equisetum telmatiea) and common horsetail (Equisetum arvense), produce both pale brown fertile shoots and vegetative green shoots that are connected by an underground stem. The giant horsetail is larger than the common horsetail, with thicker stems. The green stems of both species have whorls of green branches. These vegetative shoots transform solar energy into food through the process of photosynthesis.

Another commonly encountered species is the bluish-green scouring-rush (Equisetum hyemale). Scouring-rushes have straight stems without branches. Fertile shoots are not separate, and cones are found at the tips of the green stems.

The stems of Scouring-rush (Equisetum hyemale) suggest a bamboo forest when examined closely.

Horsetails are ancient and beautiful plants. To see the fertile shoots of horsetails rising from the ditches, one is reminded of the profound history of this plant. Having been around for 300 million years, horsetails vastly predate any human presence on the planet, challenging our limited conception of time.

About the Contributors:

Jocie Ingram is a naturalist and writer based in the Comox Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of her nature writing can be found on her blog.

Dave Ingram is a nature photographer based on Vancouver Island. More of Dave his photographs can be viewed on his blog.

The beach at San Josef Bay, Cape Scott Provincial Park.

I have made two visits to the San Josef Bay area of Cape Scott Provincial Park. The area is an excellent place for both beach combing and photography.

On the first occasion we drove to the trail head, parked and backpacked the short distance to San Josef Bay. This is a short hike (less than an hour) on a good trail. Family campers were packing in their supplies in a wheelbarrow! On our first night we were awakened to yelling and cursing. One of our party had a mouse in his tent that he could not capture until he could see it in daylight.

I found plenty to see and do from the San Josef Bay campsite. I enjoy beach walking and beach combing. In the evening light I photographed and shot one of my favorite beach images. Great views of the coast and the sub alpine scenery can be obtained with a day hike up Mt. St. Patric. The trail is accessible from the beach, and though it can be slippery and muddy it is well worth the effort. More ambitious hikers can descend from Mt. St. Patric to Sea Otter Cove but the trail is less defined and only suitable for the more experienced hiker. Canoing and Kayaking are possible in the area. There is a boat launch near the trail head and you can paddle down the river to the ocean on higher tides.

On a second visit, with a camper on my truck, we stayed in the RV area near the trailhead. We were able to enjoy day hikes to San Josef beach and other nearby places of interest. With a base at San Josef Bay, other side trips can be made to Winter Harbor, Raft Cove and Grant Bay.

Sea Stacks at San Josef Bay.

A highlight was a side trip along the road to Port Hardy to visit Ronnings Garden. We took the signed side road, parked and walked a short distance to the garden. A Black Bear had been just ahead of us on the trail, leaving his or her calling cards.

This heritage garden, started by Brent Ronning in 1910 has an interesting history and contains many plants and shrubs imported from around the world. Anyone who has started a garden will be impressed at the work involved in starting a garden of this scale in the rain forest. When we visited, the new owners were busy propagating Monkey Puzzle trees which thrive in the unlikely habitat. An interesting comparison is with Cougar Annie’s Garden on the coast north of Tofino.

About the Contributor:

Chris Carter is a photographer based in the Comox Valley, British Columbia. His current work can be viewed in galleries on Vancouver Island and on his web site.

The dramatic north coast shore in Cape Scott Provincial Park makes for striking black and white photographs.

Cape Scott Provincial Park is at the northern tip of Vancouver Island. The conventional way of visiting the northern part of the Park is to backpack from the trail head. Nels Bight is 16.8 km from the trail head and the trail can be muddy and difficult. However, you can avoid the long hike in with a loaded pack by taking a water taxi from Port Hardy. Our group of seven shared the cost and was delivered to the beach at Nels Bight. By bringing our supply of drinking water with us, we were able to avoid the crowded part of the beach near the water supply. At the end of our trip we hiked out, our packs considerably lightened. Our leader arranged a pick up from the trail head back to Port Hardy.

Sunset at Nels Bight, Cape Scott Provincial Park

A visit to Cape Scott combines hiking a wild, rugged and beautiful coastline with the historical interest of its attempted settlement between 1897 and 1917. You should read up on the history before visiting the area. You will be in awe of the difficulties the pioneers faced in attempting to conquer this land. The dyke they made by hand and oxen (twice, the first effort washed away) still survives.

Wreck at Fisherman's Bight

A stay of 5 days would not be too long. There are numerous trails and beaches to explore. The manned lighthouse can be reached by trail. Be warned that the weather can be very wet and stormy at any time of the year. Bulletproof rain gear and a sturdy tent and fly are essential. Carrying an extra tarp for a cooking shelter is always a good idea. Detailed information is given on the BC Parks website.

Fireweed and Sitka Spruce

From a photographer’s point of view, there are many scenic opportunities and a challenge is to portray the extreme wildness of the area, especially on a bland sunny day. Cameras have to be protected from the severe conditions. I carry a DSLR in a waterproof kayaking pouch and spare lenses in waterproof clothing bags. I have a spare camp towel for drying and cleaning off the cameras. You need enough batteries and memory card capacity for the entire trip. I found the best lighting conditions in the late summer evenings. Black and white renderings of the images best conveyed the feeling of place.

Rainbow at Nels Bight

Getting There:

Those wishing to explore Cape Scott Provincial Park have a couple of options. The Cape Scott trail head is located 64 km from Port Hardy on rough gravel logging roads. Water taxi service and shuttle service are available from Port Hardy:

• Cape Scott Water Taxi (drop off and pick up)
• Catala Charters (water taxi)
• North Coast Trail Shuttle (water taxi and shuttle bus to Cape Scott trail head)

Seedheads

Beach markers, bouys, and other flotsam and jetsam can be found on the beach at Cape Scott.

About the Contributor:

Chris Carter is a photographer based in the Comox Valley, British Columbia. His current work can be viewed in galleries on Vancouver Island and on his web site.