Dick Island, a pleasant hiking destination on Texada Island, British Columbia.

With a warm, sunny weekend weather forecast, my mother and I decided to go camping on Texada Island. Boarding the ferry from Comox at Little River, we crossed Georgia Strait to Powell River, then re-entered the terminal for the shorter passage to Texada.

The largest of the Gulf Islands, Texada is 50 km long, and as wide as 10 km. It is one of the few islands with an industry-based economy, including three major limestone quarries, which export up to 6 million tones of limestone a year, and several logging operations. Approaching the ferry dock at Blubber Bay, there is full view of a large quarrying site with heavy machinery and plumes of lime dust rising in the wind.

Driving off the ferry and away from the quarry, one soon feels the tranquility of this large, forested island. The two main communities of Van Anda and Gillies Bay have a charming, almost old-fashioned feel. Most of the island’s 1200 residents live on the northern half of the island. Surprisingly, the southern half is unpaved, and has network of gravel logging roads.

Despite the island’s industry, it is great place for nature, with over 200 species of birds, several unusual plants, and rare species of stickleback. At the southern end, accessible by boat or logging road, is a 900-acre provincial park. More accessible is Shelter Point Regional Park, a 40-acre treasure that is located south of Gillies Bay.

Shelter Point has a large campground, including showers and a seasonal concession. At the time of our arrival, there were no other campers, so we had our pick of beach-side sites with fine views. The park’s nature trail winds through an impressive grove of old-growth Douglas-firs, with thick, furrowed bark and limbs as big as trunks.

Giant Chain Fern (Woodwardia fimbriata)

One of the most exciting things about Texada is the Giant Chain Fern (Woodwardia fimbriata). In Canada, this rare fern exists at a site near Victoria, but is otherwise restricted to Texada and Lasquiti Islands. It is more commonly found in the redwood forests south of the border. This spectacular fern has huge, tropical looking fronds that can grow close to 3 metres high. The evergreen leaves persist year round, and new fiddleheads emerge in the spring. On the underside of the fronds, one can study the lozenge-shaped sori (spore-bearing sacs), which resemble links of a chain. The giant chain fern favours damp sites, but grows in quite a range of habitats on the island. Local naturalist John Dove has been interested in the fern for a long time, and has been recording sites on the island where it grows for the last several decades. We contacted Dove, who told us of several roadside locations where the fern grows.

Giant Chain Fern (Woodwardia fimbriata) sori

Having found the fern, we turned our attention to birds. Along the shore we could hear the screaming calls of Black Oystercatchers. An Osprey patrolled the beach, and hovered in the sky, trying to spot a fish. Herons stood stalk-still at the edge of the water, and crows pestered ever-present Bald Eagles. In the woods and shrubbery warblers were singing, and finches and sparrows hopped into view.

Birds and plants aside, there are other things to draw a curious naturalist to Texada. In Texada’s lakes, there are rare species of freshwater stickleback (Gasterosteus sp.), small fish that are endemic to Texada, and found no-where else on the globe. These are descended from ocean-dwelling species, and are believed to have evolved since the last ice age about 13 000 years ago. In the evolutionary scheme of things they are a very new species. This relatively rapid evolution is of much interest to scientists, challenging old notions that evolution is a very long and slow process.

Texada sticklebacks are red-listed (very rare) and limited to four of the island’s lakes. Predators, human activity, and non-native species are a significant threat to their survival. Similarly rare sticklebacks have been found on Lasqueti Island, but these have since gone extinct.   

After the sleepy pace of Texada, it was a bit of a shock to return to the hustle and bustle of the Comox Valley. Having gotten a feel for Texada’s nature, I will definitely be back to experience its unique beauty and do more exploring.

About the Contributor:

Jocie Ingram is a naturalist and writer based in the Comox Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of her nature writing can be found on her blog.

• Level 1 – easy walking, mostly level paths
• Level 2 – paths can be narrow with uneven terrain
• Level 3 – steeper grades or obstacles in paths requiring agility
• Level 4 – very steep, insecure footing or longer hikes requiring good physical condition

September 2010 Field Trips

The following are walks and presentations hosted by the Victoria Natural History Society during the month of September, 2010. To learn more about the VNHS please visit their website at http://www.vicnhs.bc.ca/.

Saturday Morning Birding
September 4, 11, 18; October 2, 9, 16, 23, 30

Call the Rare Bird Alert (250-704-2555) or check the VNHS website Rare Bird Alert on the Thursday or Friday before to find out this week’s location. Starting at 8:00 a.m., rain or shine. For more details, call Rick at 250-885-2454. Novice and experienced birders all welcome.

Saturday morning bird walks with the Victoria Natural History Society may provide a chance to "get to know the gulls."

Tuesday, September 14
Wolverines: A Story of Ecological Myths and Economic Realities

Wolverines have a tough reputation as a dauntless and tenacious icon of untamed wilderness. But as untamed wilderness declines, what does this mean for wolverines? Wolverines used to range across Alberta’s Rockies, Prairies, and boreal forests, but they have declined significantly in the last century. With extensive oil and gas development, the remaining suitable habitats for wolverines may be dwindling as well. Wolverine ecology in Alberta was a blank space on the map before we started a five-year study of these elusive and rare predators. We used camera trapping and non-invasive genetic research to examine wolverines in a protected mountain forest landscape, and in an adjacent foothills forest landscape with extensive forest harvesting and energy development. We found that the myth of wolverines’ resilience is built on unsteady ground: economic development has clashed with this icon of wilderness. The outcome for all western Canadian wolverines from Ontario to BC may be uncertain, but dispelling the myths and embracing a true understanding of wolverines and their ecological requirements can help conserve this species across their range. Join wildlife ecologist Dr. Jason Fisher as he takes us on a remarkable scientific and photographic journey to reveal 
hidden insights into this largely unknown animal. We meet at 7:30 p.m. in Room 159 of the Fraser Building. Admission is free and everyone is welcome. Bring a friend and a coffee mug.

Saturday, September 18
Don’t Panic, Grow Organic

As part of the District of Saanich Pesticide-Free Gardening Series, Carolyn Herriot demonstrates through her own garden the fact that you can have a beautiful healthy landscape without using products that are harmful to nature or wildlife. Come and discover some simple natural techniques to keep your garden in balance, allowing Mother Nature to take over, while you enjoy the garden. 11:00 a.m. at the Pearkes Recreation Centre, 
Ross Room.

Saturday, September 18
Life After Pesticides: Beautiful Yards and Healthy Gardens

Dr. Linda Gilkeson will give an illustrated talk on how to have lovely yards, food gardens, and lawns, without resorting to pesticides. She will change how you think about dealing with weeds, insects, and other pests with her emphasis on prevention and low-cost, simple methods. She shows why it is essential to correctly identify pests, how to know when to treat and the right way to use organic treatments. Part of the District of Saanich Pesticide-Free Gardening Series: 1:30 p.m. at the Pearkes Recreation Centre, Ross Room.

Learn how to make your garden more insect friendly!

Sunday, September 19
Endangered Avatar Grove

We will visit the magnificent but endangered “Avatar Grove”, home to ancient redcedars and now rare old-growth Douglas-fir trees. The Grove is flagged for logging despite its potential to become a major tourism destination. TJ Watt from the Ancient Forest Alliance will show us the way around the grove, explain its significance, and what we can do to help. We will stop at spots along the way and return via Lake Cowichan. Please note that the area where we will be walking is rugged and irregular. Be prepared to climb over large logs and scramble over big roots, obstacles, and steep terrain. Limited number, VNHS members only. Leaving Victoria at 8:00 a.m. and returning late, possibly with a quick supper stop at a restaurant so have some cash for that. Pack a lunch as we will not be stopping near food facilities until evening. Preregister by contacting Agnes between Sept. 1-15. The first eight people have the option of coming in her van. Others to carpool by pre-arrangement only. Road is paved except for a few short sections of good gravel road. Cost to come in the van or carpool with others will be about $25 for the day. No pets please. Contact Agnes at 250-721-0634 to register or for more information. Field Trip Level 3.

Tuesday, September 21
Botany Night – Some Interesting Ferns And “Fern Allies” of British Columbia

There are several puzzles among the more than 100 species of British Columbia ferns and fern allies, and some taxonomical problems have been swept under the carpet. Adolf & Oluna Ceska will try to expose some of them. You might be surprised that even the most common BC ferns hide some deep secrets. Swan Lake Nature House, 7:30 p.m. Admission is free and everyone is welcome. Bring a friend!

Licorice Fern

Wednesday, September 22
Birder’s Night – Birds of Vancouver Island

Join Mike Yip as he takes us on a photographic journey 
off shore of Vancouver Island. In 2006 he spent 13 days at 
sea on a fishing boat sighting pelagics. This trip was filled 
with albatrosses, shearwaters, and the first sighted and documented Lesser Nighthawk in BC. Mike will also present photos of other uncommon birds seen since 2006. We meet at 7:30 p.m. in Room 159 of the Fraser Building. Admission is 
free and everyone is welcome. Bring a friend and a coffee 
mug.

Saturday, September 25
Hawk Watch

Join CRD Regional Parks, the Victoria Natural History Society, as well as staff from Pacific Northwest Raptors for live displays and activities at Aylard Farm. Experts with spotting scopes will be at the viewpoint above Beechey Head. The hike up to the viewpoint requires sturdy footwear and a 20-minute trek up a steep and rocky trail. Bring binoculars, water, and a lunch. Drop in anytime between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. at the parking lot off Becher Bay Road.

Turkey Vultures at East Sooke Park.

Sunday, September 26
Juan De Fuca Pelagic Birding

We have hired a boat (the Fantasea II) to go from Victoria Harbour out into the Juan de Fuca Strait and to Race Rocks 
to find some of the pelagic species that feed there. We will follow the tide debris line that occurs between Victoria and 
Race Rocks as the currents cause an upwelling of nutrients from the bottom, resulting in the best feeding spots for the birds. Possible birds include shearwaters, murrelets, auklets, jaegers, Northern Fulmar, Tufted Puffin, many species of gulls, phalaropes, and other pelagics. Sea mammals, including 
whales, are also possibilities. There is room for 20 people; the cost is $60.00 (including HST) per person for a five-hour trip 
(9:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.). You must pre-pay on the VNHS 
website or by cheque to VNHS and pre-register by phoning 
Ann Nightingale at 250-652-6450. Field Trip Level 1.

Monday, September 27
Marine Night – Whales, Satellites, and Cold Lunches on the Edge of Antarctica

In 2007, Charles Short and a small group of researchers studied Antarctic killer whales and humpbacks, using satellite tags to track their movements and migratory behaviour. Prior to that he studied eastern Pacific Gray Whales off Vancouver Island. He will present aspects of both these projects. These studies have helped biologists to understand the role of marine protected areas for wide ranging species such as whales. 
Charles is presently with the Integrated Land Management Bureau in BC where he focuses on the design of marine protected area networks. Meet at 7:30 p.m. in Room 159 of the Fraser Building. Admission is free and everyone is welcome. Bring a friend!

Groves of twisted Arbutus (Arbutus menziesii) can be found at Helliwell Provincial Park on Hornby Island, British Columbia.

A painting called “The Sunbathers” (by Daphne Stevens) hanging on my kitchen wall depicts a group of smooth, orange-barked arbutus trees basking in the sun on a hot, rocky hillside from BC’s southern Gulf Islands. There is something mesmerizing about this tree, with its sinuous limbs and distinctive orangey-cinnamon peeling bark. Leaning out over bluffs and beaches with a crown of glossy dark-green leaves, the exotic Arbutus is reminiscent of warmer, more Mediterranean climes.

According to writer Andrew Scott “… the arbutus seems to exert some weird power over the creative mind.” Droves of artists and poets have sought to capture the dramatic presence of this striking tree, which figures in the works of some of Canada’s great artists, such as E.J. Hughes’ “An Arbutus Tree at Crofton Beach” (1973), W.P. Weston’s “Arbutus Shedding Bark” (1947), and Emily Carr’s “Arbutus Tree”  (1922).

Arbutus (Arbutus menziesii) is Latin for “strawberry tree”, in reference to the tree’s bright red berries and its resemblance to the related strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) from Europe. The species name, menziesii, is named after Archibald Menzies, a Scottish botanist who described the tree in 1792 during Captain Vancouver’s expedition to the Pacific coast. In the United States arbutus is also known as Madrone, which comes from the Spanish word Madroño, meaning strawberry tree. 

Bright Arbutus (Arbutus menziesii) berries somewhat resemble small oranges.

Arbutus reaches the northern tip of its range around Campbell River, and extends south along the coast to southern California. In BC, it is restricted to dry, rocky, sunny slopes with coarse mineral soil that drains rapidly. It is usually found within eight kilometres of the ocean, but in our area arbutus is also found along the dry bluffs of lake edges, such as Comox Lake and the Buttle Lake corridor in Strathcona Park. South of the border, Arbutus is more common and occupies a wider range of habitats, and may grow at elevations of 1200 metres or more.

Fussy about where it grows, arbutus is generally unsuitable for the garden. It is difficult to transplant, and if conditions are not right (too shady or moist), it is susceptible to root rot and a host of other pathogens.

Often gnarled and irregular in its growth form, the trunk of arbutus divides into many twisting branches. It can reach heights of 30 metres, but is usually much shorter and can be shrub-like. Arbutus is often found growing along side Douglas-fir and Garry oak trees, and is associated with shrubs like oceanspray, Oregon grape and baldhip rose. 

The older papery orange-brown bark is shed yearly, peeling off in strips, revealing the newer lime-green or chartreuse bark beneath. The dark green leathery leaves are shiny above, and whitish beneath, and readily shed rainwater. Arbutus retains its leaves year-round, and is the only broad-leaved evergreen tree native to Canada.

Arbutus (Arbutus menziesii) flowers are creamy white and very fragrant.

In late April to May, arbutus is covered in clusters of frothy creamy-white blooms that smell like honey, and are very attractive to bees and other insects. Like other members of the heath family, the individual flowers of arbutus are small and bell-shaped, similar to that of heather, blueberries, huckleberries and salal. In late summer and fall, mealy orange to red berries are produced that are inedible to humans, but loved by birds such as American Robins and Cedar Waxwings. Deer and mice also favour the berries. Roughly the size of a marble, each berry has a bumpy surface texture, like an orange rind.

Arbutus wood is cherry coloured when aged, and is very heavy and dense, weighing as much as 44 lbs per square foot. Though it can be used for woodworking, arbutus is brittle, and tends to crack and warp easily when it is dried. 

First Nations peoples used arbutus as a remedy for colds, stomach troubles and tuberculosis. The reddish bark was boiled up and used as a food dye.

In our area, arbutus is most common along the shores of the northern Gulf Islands including Denman, Hornby and Quadra Islands. Lovely arbutus trees can also be viewed along the highway in the vicinity of Parksville and Nanaimo.

About the Contributors:

Jocie Ingram is a naturalist and writer based in the Comox Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of her nature writing can be found on her blog.

Dave Ingram is a nature photographer based on Vancouver Island. More of Dave his photographs can be viewed on his blog.

• Level 1 – easy walking, mostly level paths
• Level 2 – paths can be narrow with uneven terrain
• Level 3 – steeper grades or obstacles in paths requiring agility
• Level 4 – very steep, insecure footing or longer hikes requiring good physical condition

August 2010 Field Trips

The following are walks and presentations hosted by the Victoria Natural History Society during the month of August, 2010. To learn more about the VNHS please visit their website at http://www.vicnhs.bc.ca/.

Monday, August 2
Dragonflies for Beginners

As Dennis Paulson says in his book, Dragonflies of Washington, “Perhaps even more than butterflies, dragonflies are bird-watchers’ insects.” Meet Darren and Claudia Copley at the Beaver Lake Retriever Ponds at 1:00 p.m. (an advantage over birding) and we’ll see what we can find. We’ll look at what field guides are available, some tricks to catching dragonflies, and even how to key out the difficult ones. Bring binoculars, an insect net (if you have one – 
we can provide), and hope for sunny weather. Field Trip Level 1.

Paddle-tailed Darner (Aeshna palmata)

Tuesday, August 3
Insectmania at Swan Lake Christmas Hill Nature Sanctuary

They’re creepy, they’re crawly and they’re cool. Explore with us 
the fascinating world of insects and spiders. Hands-on exploration, live bugs, crafts, songs, and games. Admission by donation, Crafts $3. Event is at the Nature House 12 noon to 3:00 p.m.

Friday, August 6
Mount Washington Botanical Day Trip

Indian Hellebore (Veratrum viride)

This trip is planned for peak bloom time but the area is interesting over several weeks with a succession of flowers. The plan is to meet at Raven Lodge on the mountain around 11:00 a.m. and decide when we get there what we will do with our day. If snow levels permit, we will walk around the Lake Helen MacKenzie – Battleship Lake route. We will also fit in a tour around Paradise Meadow on our way to and from our main adventure. The trail will be on hilly and uneven ground but will be done at a slow pace. We will leave Victoria at 7:00 a.m. and return late, stopping for a quick supper on the way home. Pack a lunch that we’ll eat someplace out on the trail. Preregister by contacting Agnes after July 1. First nine people to sign up have the option of coming in her van. Others to carpool by pre-arrangement. Cost to come in the van or carpool with others will be about $30 for the day from Victoria. Additional cost of $15 ($12 senior) if we go up the chairlift for a scenic tour if time permits and weather cooperates. Remember to bring money for a fast-food supper. Wear proper footwear and bring a hiking stick plus bring warm clothes as it is usually cold up there. No pets please. Contact Agnes at ‘thelynns at shaw.ca’ or 250-721-0634 to register or for more information. Field Trip Level 3.

Sunday, August 8
Olympic Park Hike from Obstruction Point to Deer Park

This hike in Washington’s Olympic National Park is only for fit hikers as it is almost 13 kilometers over challenging terrain, along open ridges exposed to winds. The flowers and the views make it worthwhile. We will be dropped off by our bus driver at Obstruction Point and we have arranged for the bus driver to meet us at Deer Park to take us back to the ferry. Both ends of the hike are excellent wildflower areas as well. Be prepared for all kinds of weather. Also wear sturdy hiking boots and hiking poles would be an asset. Bring a lunch, snacks and lots to drink as we will not be near any facilities. Meet at the Black Ball Ferry terminal in the Inner Harbour at 5:45 a.m. for the 6:10 a.m. sailing of the M.V. Coho. Allow time to park and purchase your ferry ticket which costs about $31.00 CDN return. Important!! You will require a passport or enhanced driver’s licence for going through U.S. Customs. You’ll have to get your birding in on the way over because we will return to Victoria on the 9:30 p.m. sailing (90 minute crossing time). We will have dinner in Port Angeles. Cost of the charter bus and entry to the park is $70 CDN. Very limited number of participants so reserve your spot early. Do not book before July 1 or after August 1. Reserve your spot by paying through Paypal on the VNHS website or you can pay by cheque. Send it to VNHS, Box 5220, Victoria BC, V8R 6N4. Either way, you must let Agnes Lynn know that you are coming on the trip after you have made a payment. Contact Agnes at ‘thelynns at shaw.ca’ or 250-721-0634 for more information. Field Trip Level 4.

Saturday, August 14 and Sunday, August 15
Victoria Butterfly Count

We are always looking for keen-eyed volunteers, so get out 
your field guides. Call James Miskelly (count coordinator) at 
250-477-0490 if you would like to help out.

Zephyr Anglewing

Sunday, August 15
Olympic Peninsula: Tufted Puffins, Brown Pelicans and More

We are going to merge two trips on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula that we have done before with our trusted tour bus leader. This time, we hope to enjoy seeing some good birds but there will be lots for all to enjoy along the way at a leisurely pace. We will start with the tour to Cape Flattery, the most northern point on the west coast of the continental United States and one of the closest locations to Victoria where you can see Tufted Puffins. Islands off the point are home to thousands of seabirds throughout the year. The birds can be observed from platforms which are located about a half hour’s walk through the forest. Instead of stopping at the excellent museum on this trip, we will continue south to La Push and other beaches where we hope to see Brown Pelicans and other sea birds that might not venture as far north as Victoria. We will make intermittent stops along the way to enjoy the beaches, where we can test our knowledge of dune plants. The Olympic Peninsula is covered with the lush growth of giant trees and luxuriant vegetation, making it a very scenic trip. Tour leader Willie also is full of fascinating facts about the area. This will be a long day so bring a lunch, snacks, and drinks as we will not stop near any facilities. Meet at the Black Ball Ferry terminal in the Inner Harbour at 5:45 a.m. for the 6:10 a.m. sailing of the M.V. Coho. Allow time to park and purchase your ferry ticket which costs about $31.00 CDN return. Important!! You will require a passport or enhanced driver’s licence for going through U.S. Customs. You’ll have to get your birding in on the way over because we will return to Victoria on the 9:30 p.m. sailing (90 minute crossing time). We will have dinner in Port Angeles. Cost of the charter bus and entry to the park is $60 CDN. Limited number of participants so reserve 
your spot early. VNHS members get priority. Do not book before July 1 or after August 8. Reserve your spot by paying through Paypal on the VNHS website or you can pay by cheque. Send it to VNHS, Box 5220, Victoria BC, V8R 6N4. Either way, you must let Agnes Lynn know that you are coming on the trip after you have made a payment. Contact Agnes at ‘thelynns at shaw.ca’ or 250-721-0634 for more information. Field Trip Level 2.

Tuesday, August 17
Fabulous Frogs at Swan Lake Christmas Hill Nature Sanctuary

Long sticky tongues, breathing through skin, and webbed feet! Discover what makes frogs so fabulous. Join us for a puppet show, hands-on displays, live animals and froggy crafts. Admission by donation. Crafts $3. Event held at the Nature House 12 noon to 3:00 p.m.

Red-legged Frog

Sunday, August 22
Discovery Island and Chain Islands Ecological Reserve Bird-watchers Kayak Tour

Discovery Island Provincial Marine Park presents many opportunities for viewing wildlife. The tour will also explore the nearby Chain Islands, which are protected bird sanctuaries and seal rookeries. You may see Bald Eagles, Rhinoceros Auklets, Harlequin Ducks, various sandpipers, and other shorebirds. By kayak, we are able to see the numerous sea birds that nest and feed in and around these shores such as the Pigeon Guillemots, Black Oystercatchers, and cormorants. Baby Harbour Seals remain undisturbed as we quietly glide past. You do not need to be an experienced kayaker as enough instruction will be given for you to enjoy a safe day on the water. Cost: $95.20 for a 5-hour guided tour starting at 9:00 a.m. Minimum required: 8 people/tour. Sign up as soon as possible but at least a week in advance. We normally pull up on a beach to have our lunch and do a bit of exploring on the island. Depending on the day’s weather, be prepared to layer up or down while on the water. Suggested gear: sunglasses, sun hat, sun screen, footwear you can get wet, windbreaker, toque, binoculars, lunch, snacks, and lots of liquid to drink. For more information/to register, phone Pacifica Paddle at 250-665-7411. Field Trip Level 3.

A variety of unique and interesting plants can be found in the Wickaninnish Beach dunes.

This is the time of year to visit the dunes of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. While most visitors walk the endless sandy beaches that the park is famous for, fewer take the time to visit the unique and fragile dune ecosystem. During June and early July, the dunes are filled with the colour of blooming flowers.

Hopping between beach logs at the top of the shore, I followed a trail leading off into a broad expanse of dune. Intrigued, I soon arrived in a strange landscape, where wave-like slopes of sand rose and fell, with troughs between. Initially it seemed like a wasteland, until I happened upon a patch of dazzling yellow sand-verbena flowers.

Yellow Sand-verbena (Abronia latifolia) has a very pleasant fragrance.

Between barren tracts of sand I noticed more flowers, and clumps of grass. Tiny mouse tracks, and larger bird tracks crisscrossed the sand. There was life here, but what sort of life could survive on this barren sand dune?

Walking through a dune is like walking back through time. The journey begins at the high tide line, which is often marked by a line of dried seaweed and sea foam. Strong winds blow this material even higher on the beach, and provide nutrients for the first “pioneer” plants to take up residence.

Conditions on the dune are harsh. Winds shift the sand, and may bury plants, creating an unstable environment. Plants must be able to tolerate the abrasive effects of blowing sand and salt spray. Full exposure to the sun can create searing temperatures. Water drains quickly through the sand, and plants must have a means of preserving moisture.

Grasses are some of the plants able to survive these conditions. Dunegrass (Elymus mollis) is a large greyish green native grass with leaf blades about 1 cm wide. European beachgrass (Ammophila arenaria) was introduced to California in the late 1800’s as a sand stabilizer, and was brought to the west coast of Vancouver Island in the 1940’s. European beachgrass is a denser, more narrow-leaved grass that forms large tussocks. Sand blown in from the beach becomes trapped in the grass, causing the sand to stabilize around the plant. Once stabilized, other vegetation may move in.

European beachgrass, and American beachgrass, a similar introduced species, are changing dune ecology and having a negative effect on many native dune plants. Attempts have been made to remove these invaders, but it is not an easy process. They are anchored into the sand by very deep vertical roots, and long horizontal roots called rhizomes sprout new plants. Parks Canada is currently working to remove the non-native grass species in an attempt to return the dunes to their original condition.

Behind the pioneer plants, and the leading edge of grasses, other plants are able to survive on the more protected leeward slopes and troughs of the dunes. These plants have special adaptations to cope with difficult conditions. The yellow sand-verbena (Abronia latifolia) is a perennial that grows from a deep taproot, in low dense mats. The leaves are thick and fleshy, preventing water loss. Sticky hairs cover the entire plant, which adhere to particles of sand. The bright yellow flowers are very fragrant.

Beach morning-glory (Convolvulus soldanella) is one of many beautiful flowers that can be found in the dunes at Wickaninnish Beach.

Another colourful dune flower is the Beach morning-glory (Convolvulus soldanella). It has magical pink fluted flowers, streaked with white bloom from thick kidney-shaped leaves.

Beach-carrot (Glehnia littoralis) is adapted to a life in the sand.

Beach-carrot (Glehnia littoralis), a hardy perennial, has leaves that are wooly beneath causing water droplets to become trapped in the wooly hairs. Beach-carrot has robust corky seeds. In the fall these, and the seeds of many other dune plants, are strewn over the sand by the wind.

Large-headed Sedge (Carex macrocephala) has long spreading rhizomes that enable it to survive in the dunes.

Many other plants eke out an existence on the dune, including large-headed sedge (Carex macrocephala), black knotweed (Polygonum paronychia), and grey beach peavine (Lathyrus littoralis).

Grey Beach Peavine (Lathyrus littoralis) can be found growing on the edge of the dunes.

Going further back, the dunes become more stabilized, and the vegetation older and more established. Stems of kinnikinnick trail out over the sand. Salal, and stunted salt-tolerate Sitka spruce trees grow here. Finally, the forest encroaches, marking the end of the dune and the beginning of the rainforest, a completely different ecosystem.

Having traversed the dune, I had learned much about this unique and fragile environment. Many people walk through the Long Beach dunes every year, and trampling can have a significant impact. If entering the dune, take care not to step on these special plants.

The dramatic dunes of the surf pounded, wind whipped outer shores of our coast are only found at scattered locations in the province; such as the west coast of Vancouver Island, Cape Scott at the northern tip of Vancouver Island, and the eastern beaches of Graham Island on the Queen Charlotte Islands. Many dune plants are listed as rare in BC by the Conservation Data Center.

Different, flatter dune ecosystems also exist along the eastern coast of Vancouver Island. Due to development along the coast, these dunes have become scarce. Some of the above mentioned plants may be found at these sites.

Walking back along the beach, I thought about what a rich place Vancouver Island is. With the ocean, beaches, dunes, rain forests and mountains, there are a wealth of things to discover.

Need to Know:

• Access the dunes from the parking area at Wickaninnish Beach. A park use permit is required to visit Pacific Rim National Park Reserve.
• Parks Canada interpreters lead regular guided walks and beach grass pulls in the dunes. Check at the park information centers for the schedule.
• The dunes are a sensitive ecosystem – please use care when exploring it.

About the Contributors:

Jocie Ingram is a naturalist and writer based in the Comox Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of her nature writing can be found on her blog.

Dave Ingram is a nature photographer based on Vancouver Island. More of Dave his photographs can be viewed on his blog.

The gravel beach and rocky outcrops of South Beach in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve make it a dramatic destination.

I took advantage of the last couple of days of passable weather on the west coast of Vancouver Island to revisit one of my many favourite beaches in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. It’s only a short 800 meter walk from the Wickaninnish Centre to South Beach and there is much for the naturalist to see and experience. 

Bird song in the Sitka Spruce forest along the South Beach Trail includes the Orange-crowned Warbler, Song Sparrow and Fox Sparrow. There is good edge habitat in the flat section of the trail with thickets of Nootka Rose and Thimbleberry providing flowers that attract bees and Rufous Hummingbirds. Further up the hillside, Pacific-slope Flycatchers call and Chestnut-backed Chickadees forage among the high branches of the Sitka Spruce. In the early evening the song of one of my favourite birds, the Swainson’s Thrush begins to spiral upward. 

Nootka Rose (Rosa nutkana) grows along the South Beach Trail.

As a photographer and botanical enthusiast, my attention is drawn to the plants. Nootka Rose (Rosa nutkana) and Thimbleberry (Rubus parviflorus) are in full bloom but one has to be careful to avoid the new growth of Stinging Nettle when trying to get closer to the flowers. I knew that Stinging Nettle can sting but now I know what it feels like! The delicate pink flowers of Nootka Rose have a delightful fragrance that fills the air on a warm day. Also growing along the trail are the large leaves of Cow Parsnip, another plant that must be approached with care.

South Beach Trail in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve ascends through a tunnel of Sitka Spruce.

The South Beach Trail ascends on a wooden ramp through a tunnel of thick, stunted Sitka Spruce before reaching the top of a rise. In the damp dark section of trail at the top of the hill look for Skunk Cabbage, Lung Liverwort (Marchantia polymorpha), and Small-flowered Bulrush (Scirpus microcarpus). From here, a narrow cedar staircase descends down towards sound of the open ocean crashing against the rocks of South Beach. 

Villous Cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa) has beautiful yellow flowers and leathery woolly leaves.

South Beach is a curving pebble beach with dramatic rocky outcrops along its sides. For the botanist, these outcrops are the home of a number of very interesting plants. Villous Cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa) seems to grow out of the rock itself and its strongly scented bright yellow flowers contrast sharply against the dark stone. The leaves of this plant are distinctively white-wooly below and thick and leathery in texture, well suited for the exposure of these rocky bluffs. 

Growing in similar locations nearby is Coastal Strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis). It too has thick, leathery leaves but its flowers are white and seem to be scentless. The individual plants are anchored by thick rootstocks that are connected by runners. Coastal Strawberry is never found far from the sea. 

Delicate Nodding Onion (Allium cernuum) contrasts agains the rough stone.

The delicate Nodding Onion (Allium cernuum) can also be found in crevices on these rocky outcrops. This member of the Lily family has a tall nodding stalk with numerous small pink bell-shaped flowers. The basal leaves are grass-like and have a strong onion smell. 

Yellow Monkey-flower (Mimulus guttatus) can often be found in wet seeps on rocky outcrops.

On one of the larger outcrops enough soil has accumulated to support a thicket of Nootka Rose. However, on the lower exposed seeps great profusions of Yellow Monkey-flower (Mimulus guttatus) make a wonderful display. 

People have arranged rocks in decorative piles at South Beach.

These are just a few of the flowers in bloom on the South Beach Trail – there’s much more in bloom to inspire a second (or third) visit. To learn more about the ecology of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve make sure to stop in at the Wickaninnish Centre and talk with a Parks Canada Heritage Interpreter. Guided walks and informative nature programs begin on June 26. 

About the Contributor:

Dave Ingram is a nature photographer and writer based in the Comox Valley on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of his images can be seen on Flickr and on Dave Ingram’s Natural History Blog.

Early blooms of Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum) stand out against green leaves.

For those interested in botany and unusual plants it is often necessary to get off the beaten path and explore areas that are sometimes a little less accessible. Rhododendron Lake, just south of Parksville on Vancouver Island, British Columbia is one such destination.

At the end of a 13 km stretch of sometimes-rough gravel logging road is an isolated grove of Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum). While this shrub is common in Washington State and further south there aren’t many places in British Columbia where one can see Pacific Rhododendron. On Vancouver Island, Rhododendron Lake is one of only two locations where it can be found. On the mainland, Rhododendron Flats in Manning Park is an easily accessible place to see this gorgeous native shrub.

A moody sky at Rhododendron Lake south of Parksville on Vancouver Island, British Columbia.

Rhododendron Lake is somewhat challenging to get to. Just south of Parksville look for the entrance to Island Timberlands. Check in at the gate for a visitor’s permit and directions to the lake. Road conditions are fairly good for the first 9 kilometers but become rougher once you leave the main logging road. While the last 3 kilometers are doable with a compact car (I was driving a Toyota Corolla) using a vehicle with more clearance would be a lot less stressful. Some strategic driving to negotiate steep rough sections, washouts, deep ruts and rocky road is required and branches reaching out over the narrow road may scratch your vehicle. Better to find a friend with an old truck or SUV that can navigate the difficult road. Your other option is to park your vehicle where the narrow track to Rhododendron Lake leaves the main road and walk in.

Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum) in bud in early June.

A short rough trail leaves the parking area at Rhododendron Lake and works its way into the Pacific Rhododendron grove. Much of the land around the lake is wet and boggy. Western Bog-Laurel (Kalmia microphylla) is also in bloom at this time of year and it is worth keeping an eye open for other bog plants. The trail is very muddy in places and overgrown with lush Salal (Gaultheria shallon) but still passable.

The thick leathery leaves of Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum) are evergreen.

Pacific Rhododendron is one of two species of native rhododendron that grows on Vancouver Island. It has thick, leathery evergreen leaves that are elliptical in shape. The flowers are showy pink to rose-purple and bell-shaped with some spotting. The petals have a wavy edge to them. A second species of rhododendron can be found on Vancouver Island later in the year at higher elevations like Paradise Meadows in Strathcona Provincial Park. The more common White-flowering Rhododendron (R. albiflorum) has smaller white flowers and deciduous leaves that are yellowish-green in colour.

A fresh pink Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum) flower brightens a dull gray day at Rhododendron Lake.

For those wishing to view the Pacific Rhododendron in bloom now is the time to make one’s way to Rhododendron Lake. This shrub flowers late in the spring and is just coming into full bloom now in mid-June. Many plants are in bud and over the course of the next two weeks will come into spectacular flower. While it takes a bit of effort to get to the lake it is well worth it to experience this unique plant community on Vancouver Island.

Rhododendron Lake under late spring gray skies.

Getting There:

Click on the Google Map below to view a scrollable version.

Rhododendron Lake, Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Need to Know:

• Check in at the Island Timberlands gate for an access permit and directions to Rhododendron Lake
• Peak bloom time this year is the second and third week of June
• Keep an eye out for wildlife – both wolves and cougars have been reported in the area.
• The road is fairly rough and a vehicle with good clearance is recommended, especially for the last 3 kilometers

About the Contributor:

Dave Ingram is a nature photographer and writer based in the Comox Valley on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of his images can be seen on Flickr and on Dave Ingram’s Natural History Blog.

Dramatic skies at Goose Spit, Comox, British Columbia.

Often the reason a destination is popular has little to do with the superb natural features of an area. Such is the case with Goose Spit Park in Comox, on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. Usually portrayed as “the” place to enjoy the sunset and an evening beach fire, Goose Spit has much more to offer the curious naturalist.

The parking lot at the far end of Hawkins Road just before it enters HMCS Quadra is an excellent starting place for a dune botanical exploration. Walking west along the beach a number of plants in the pea family (Fabaceae) can be found above the high tide line and among the driftwood logs.

Seashore Lupin (Lupinus littoralis)

At this time of year, Beach Pea (Lathyrus japonicus) is in bloom as are two species of lupin – Seashore Lupin (Lupinus littoralis) and Tree Lupin (L. arboreus). The former is a native species, the latter has been introduced from California, possibly in an attempt to stabilize the shoreline. A third pea that is readily visible is the invasive Scotch Broom (Cystisus scoparius).

When the buildings of the base end, the dunes start to open up. A training obstacle course runs through the center of dune habitat and climbing walls and other apparatus are readily visible. This sandy area is spectacular for early and late spring blooms and many of early the plants are still in bloom at this time of year (although many are also going to seed as well).

Be mindful that this is extremely sensitive habitat and very significant since it is only one of four locations in BC where the endangered Sand-verbena moth is known to exist. Fortunately, much of the dunes are within DND lands and access is prohibited. It is still possible to find and enjoy most of the plants in the narrow strip between the high tide line and the DND boundary.

Watch for the leaves of Yellow Sand-verbena (Abronia latifolia). Some of these plants were transplanted as part of the recovery plan for the Sand-verbena Moth.

Gold Star (Crocidium multicaule)

Other typical dune plants include Gold Star (Crocidium multicaule), a beautiful yellow aster that is just finishing blooming at this time of year – both flowers and seed heads can be found.

Pink Microsteris (Microsteris gracilis)

Pink Microsteris (Microsteris gracilis) is another delicate dune plant common at Goose Spit. Its small pink flowers have five petals and while the plant has a weedy look it is actually a native species.

Black Knotweed (Polygonum paronychia)

Black Knotweed (Polygonum paronychia) grows in the dunes as well. It has a prostrate, shrubby look with thick leaves that are rolled under. The flowers of this plant are white to pink and clustered in the upper leaf axils.

These are just a few of the flowers that can be seen at Goose Spit in the spring and early summer. With a little care, this rare and sensitive ecosystem can be explored and the natural beauty of the flora of the dunes, so often missed by the casual beach walker, experienced and appreciated.

About the Contributor:

Dave Ingram is a nature photographer and writer based in the Comox Valley on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of his images can be seen on Flickr and on Dave Ingram’s Natural History Blog.

The Coastal Naturalist program begins on Friday, June 25th on BC Ferries sailings between Vancouver and Vancouver Island. Photo by Sara Borck - © Parks Canada

Have you ever wondered why Orcas are called ‘Killer Whales’ or what an eelgrass meadow is? Did you know that during the BC Ferries sailing between Victoria and Vancouver, you are actually in the midst of Gulf Islands National Park Reserve? While traveling onboard BC Ferries this summer, join us for an onboard presentation where our Coastal Naturalists will inspire you to learn about the natural world around you.

Now in its fifth year, the Coastal Naturalist program offers BC Ferries passengers an opportunity to get to know the wonders of BC’s coast, introducing topics about the ocean, BC’s unique wildlife and marine environments, coastal, nautical and cultural history, and what to see and do in local Parks Canada places. The 2010 Coastal Naturalist program is celebrating BC Ferries 50th anniversary of maritime history, 125 years of national parks in Canada and the 150th anniversary of Fisgard Lighthouse!

Look for the Coastal Naturalist program on-board BC Ferries this summer.

“Are we there yet?” won’t be ringing in your ears this summer. Our ten Coastal Naturalists are armed with a heap of new programs, and some great new props for your kids to try on – yours might become a giant purple sea star or the next Great Blue Heron! Last year, the Coastal Naturalists engaged with over 174,000 passengers, helping to inspire, educate and inform them about the great experience they are part of on this amazing coast. Passengers love this program and have complemented it frequently – they tell us it exceeds their expectations and increases their appreciation of the area. One passenger commented, “the value of learning about our natural environment is a way to form a closer, connected relationship with our community of life around us. This connection will help us protect and save our environment and wildlife.”

Become a giant Purple Sea Star during a Coastal Naturalists program!

For locals and tourists, young or youthful, seasoned BC Ferries traveler or your first time onboard; the Coastal Naturalist has something for you. Additionally, each presentation is prepared with you in mind; created with a variety of themes and interesting facts. You might learn about the amazing creatures found under the waters in the Strait of Georgia on one sailing, or on another, the compelling stories of the people who call Coastal BC home. You will also learn about the fragile and complex environments of Pacific Rim and Gulf Islands National Park Reserves. All this while catching a glimpse of wildlife and marine life from the deck, on almost half of the coastal naturalist sailings.

The 2010 Coastal Naturalist program begins Friday, June 25th and runs until Monday, September 6, 2010 onboard BC Ferries vessels traveling between Vancouver/Tsawwassen and Victoria/Swartz Bay, and West Vancouver/Horseshoe Bay and Nanaimo/Departure Bay. Coastal Naturalists are onboard mid-day sailings Friday thru Monday. In addition, beginning mid-July, Naturalists are onboard the Spirit Class vessels sailing between Vancouver and Victoria daily. Watch for a Coastal Naturalist onboard your vessel during these times, introduce yourself and join the presentation. A detailed schedule of sailing times with onboard Coastal Naturalists is found on www.bcferries.com through a link to the Coastal Experiences starfish logo on the bottom right corner of the homepage.

The Coastal Naturalist Program is proudly brought to you by BC Ferries and Parks Canada.

A juvenile Sea Lion swims by me at Norris Rock near Hornby Island, BC.

My partner and I are the only divers in the water this afternoon and we are outnumbered 30-2. We hover in 20’ of water anxiously watching an undulating cloud of sand, silt, fur and bubbles head our way. A welcoming committee of curious juvenile California Sea Lions (Zalophus californianus) is on its way to check us out. Like marauding teenagers out on the town, this gang is only a small part of the Norris Rock Sea Lion population. There are a couple hundred more on the rock above who are more content to lie around and watch from their comfy rock lounges.

My entire body and camera are covered by bubbles that the Sea Lions have blown over me in play. Normally, bubble blowing is considered an aggressive act but I think they are just doing it to me because my scuba bubbles are doing it to them.

In anticipation of some Sea Lion action shots I have brought my Nikon D200, housed in its trustworthy Ikelite box and with dual strobes it looks like a small propulsion unit without a propeller. The last time we dove here was with a group of divers so the curious behemoths had lots of bodies to sample but today, we are ‘it’! They swarm over us and nibble at us in such numbers that I am unable to get enough distance from them to snap off a photo. A pair working on either side of me has delicately captured the short strings that hold the diffusers to my strobes in their teeth and are tugging in opposite directions. Another is chewing on a strobe arm, I can feel them tugging on my fins and pushing on my tank and then after an eternal couple minutes, they all suddenly disappear in a flourish as if something has called them away.

These Sea Lions come to Norris Rock near Hornby Island, BC for the winter. Typically the new mothers with babes stay in the south while groups like this one migrate north from as far away as Mexico. Thankfully their breeding season is June-July or we would be watching from the boat because they can become quite aggressive while ‘dating’. I wouldn’t want to be mistaken for a sexy female of the pinniped persuasion.

Not quite so graceful on land, these Sea Lions spend their winters here at Norris Rock near Hornby Island, BC.

With the name “Sea Lion” one might conjure up an image of a seal with a mane. They don’t have that but the mature males have a large cranium that gives them a majestic profile. These are the cute circus ‘seals’ with little ears that are trained to do tricks and are so smart in fact, that the navy has been known to recruit them and train them for underwater maneuvers. Boasting the label of “fastest pinniped” they can travel at speeds of up to 20 km/hr and dive to 1000 feet. We divers are envious of them!

A North Pacific Giant Octopus (Enteroctopus dofleini) hides under a rock.

A few fin kicks away in a space under a rock quivers a large octopus. Highly sought after on the Sea Lion menu, this octopus must have mistaken this hole for a safe abode. I wonder how long he has been here, and how long it will be before he becomes lunch. I am careful not to draw too much attention to him lest he be discovered. Along with octopus, Sea Lions eat fish and shellfish so except for hundreds of sea urchins the underwater landscape around Norris Rock is quite devoid of life.

Young Sea Lions swim by to check us out while diving at Norris Rock, Hornby Island, BC

Our welcoming committee is passing by and pauses to give us a ‘second’ over. They never seem to tire of this game… eyes rolling inquisitively at me as if to watch my reaction while they swallow my strobe, or fins, or hand. Some even like to be stroked and roll over on a side to offer up the best place to scratch. They remind me of a giant dog and I giggle into my regulator at their antics.

It is experiences like this that I live for. At any time these wild mammals could shred me, and yet they don’t. Don’t get me wrong… my heart pounds with adrenalin and fear just like the next person AND I wasn’t the first one to say “Hey, let’s try diving with those blubber monsters over there”… I have the ultimate respect for them and in return, they are gentle and curious with me.

Need to Know:

• Access is by boat
• Sea Lions are typically here from November to April
• Technically this is an easy dive; ability to stay calm is an asset!

Options for Diving:

• Hornby Island Diving – Stay and Dive
• U.B. Diving – Day trips

About the Contributor:

Lisa Graham of Seadance Photography is a freelance photographer who specializes in the underwater realm. Based in the Comox Valley you can visit her website at www.seadance.ca for her full portfolio.