Dick Island, a pleasant hiking destination on Texada Island, British Columbia.

With a warm, sunny weekend weather forecast, my mother and I decided to go camping on Texada Island. Boarding the ferry from Comox at Little River, we crossed Georgia Strait to Powell River, then re-entered the terminal for the shorter passage to Texada.

The largest of the Gulf Islands, Texada is 50 km long, and as wide as 10 km. It is one of the few islands with an industry-based economy, including three major limestone quarries, which export up to 6 million tones of limestone a year, and several logging operations. Approaching the ferry dock at Blubber Bay, there is full view of a large quarrying site with heavy machinery and plumes of lime dust rising in the wind.

Driving off the ferry and away from the quarry, one soon feels the tranquility of this large, forested island. The two main communities of Van Anda and Gillies Bay have a charming, almost old-fashioned feel. Most of the island’s 1200 residents live on the northern half of the island. Surprisingly, the southern half is unpaved, and has network of gravel logging roads.

Despite the island’s industry, it is great place for nature, with over 200 species of birds, several unusual plants, and rare species of stickleback. At the southern end, accessible by boat or logging road, is a 900-acre provincial park. More accessible is Shelter Point Regional Park, a 40-acre treasure that is located south of Gillies Bay.

Shelter Point has a large campground, including showers and a seasonal concession. At the time of our arrival, there were no other campers, so we had our pick of beach-side sites with fine views. The park’s nature trail winds through an impressive grove of old-growth Douglas-firs, with thick, furrowed bark and limbs as big as trunks.

Giant Chain Fern (Woodwardia fimbriata)

One of the most exciting things about Texada is the Giant Chain Fern (Woodwardia fimbriata). In Canada, this rare fern exists at a site near Victoria, but is otherwise restricted to Texada and Lasquiti Islands. It is more commonly found in the redwood forests south of the border. This spectacular fern has huge, tropical looking fronds that can grow close to 3 metres high. The evergreen leaves persist year round, and new fiddleheads emerge in the spring. On the underside of the fronds, one can study the lozenge-shaped sori (spore-bearing sacs), which resemble links of a chain. The giant chain fern favours damp sites, but grows in quite a range of habitats on the island. Local naturalist John Dove has been interested in the fern for a long time, and has been recording sites on the island where it grows for the last several decades. We contacted Dove, who told us of several roadside locations where the fern grows.

Giant Chain Fern (Woodwardia fimbriata) sori

Having found the fern, we turned our attention to birds. Along the shore we could hear the screaming calls of Black Oystercatchers. An Osprey patrolled the beach, and hovered in the sky, trying to spot a fish. Herons stood stalk-still at the edge of the water, and crows pestered ever-present Bald Eagles. In the woods and shrubbery warblers were singing, and finches and sparrows hopped into view.

Birds and plants aside, there are other things to draw a curious naturalist to Texada. In Texada’s lakes, there are rare species of freshwater stickleback (Gasterosteus sp.), small fish that are endemic to Texada, and found no-where else on the globe. These are descended from ocean-dwelling species, and are believed to have evolved since the last ice age about 13 000 years ago. In the evolutionary scheme of things they are a very new species. This relatively rapid evolution is of much interest to scientists, challenging old notions that evolution is a very long and slow process.

Texada sticklebacks are red-listed (very rare) and limited to four of the island’s lakes. Predators, human activity, and non-native species are a significant threat to their survival. Similarly rare sticklebacks have been found on Lasqueti Island, but these have since gone extinct.   

After the sleepy pace of Texada, it was a bit of a shock to return to the hustle and bustle of the Comox Valley. Having gotten a feel for Texada’s nature, I will definitely be back to experience its unique beauty and do more exploring.

About the Contributor:

Jocie Ingram is a naturalist and writer based in the Comox Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of her nature writing can be found on her blog.

Rocky headlands at Radar Hill Beach create dramatic vistas.

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is well known for its long sandy windswept beaches. Every year over 800,000 people visit this spectacular national park. If you truly want to experience the dramatic power of this landscape, the challenge is finding a place without many people.

When visiting Pacific Rim I try to plan my walks for the early morning and choose trails that are a little bit longer in order to avoid the crowds. If you have to walk longer than thirty minutes the number of people that you encounter drops off fairly quickly and you can begin to appreciate the beauty of the less visited places in the park.

Rocky outcrops at Radar Hill Beach provide excellent viewpoints for photography.

I recently explored one of the unofficial trails in the park that leads from the Radar Hill viewpoint to the Radar Hill Beach. This trail is not maintained by Parks Canada staff and those expecting an easy gravel and boardwalk stroll will be challenged immediately. The reward for your effort is an amazing beach and, at low tide, excellent opportunities for tide pool exploration.

Portions of the Radar Hill Beach trail are very steep and challenging to navigate. There are two sections where climbing using roots as hand holds is necessary.

Be forewarned. This trail is a backcountry slog with a rainforest twist. Sections of the trail are very steep and resemble a climbing wall complete with a rope and a convoluted mass of roots to assist you down and up again. Hiking boots with good ankle support are required and there are multiple places to twist an ankle on an exposed root. In many places the trail goes over, under, or around large old fallen trees. In other parts of the trail you have to balance on top of fallen trees in order to cross over streams and gullies. And finally, there is mud and lots of it. There hasn’t been much rain recently but the trail was still very muddy in places. Allow 45 minutes of scrambling and working through mud, roots and downed trees to hike from the parking lot to the beach itself – it may take you more or less time depending on your fitness level and trail conditions.

Radar Hill is visible from Radar Hill Beach.

Radar Hill Beach is worth the effort. The trail leaves the Sitka spruce and emerges into a small dune ecosystem – typical plants here are Yellow Sand-verbena, Beach-carrot, and Seashore Lupine. Use some care in this fragile area and avoid trampling on the sensitive dune plants.

Seashore Lupin (Lupinus littoralis) is one of the plants that can be found in the sand dunes above the beach at Radar Hill Beach.

The beach itself is framed by rocky headlands and looks out toward several smaller islands. At low tide, many of the rocky islets are surround by sand and it is possible to get good looks at a variety of intertidal life including walls of mussels, purple seastars, gooseneck barnacles, giant green surf anemones. Black oystercatchers nest on the rocky islands so make sure to give them plenty of room. Above all, it is the lack of people that makes this location so special. Over the course of four hours I saw a total of four people, and those only briefly. Opportunities to explore a beach to the south exist but beyond that rocky headlands make further travel difficult.

Small rocky islands at Radar Hill Beach are accessible at very low tides. Use caution and always be aware of when the tide is at its lowest point.

The route to Radar Hill Beach is a challenging “backcountry” alternative to regular trails in the park. The stunning views and isolation make it worth considering.

Need to know:

• Lower level gates to the viewpoint at Radar Hill open at 8:00am and close at 11:00pm – a Park Use Permit is required to access the parking area
• Bring food, water, and appropriate clothing and footwear for a backcountry hike
• Be aware that wildlife encounters are possible on the trail and know what to do if you meet a black bear, cougar or wolf
• A fair level of fitness, balance, and agility is required to navigate roots, trees, and muddy areas
• Visitors using this unofficial trail do so at their own risk – you are on your own

About the Contributor:

Dave Ingram is a nature photographer and writer based in the Comox Valley on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of his images can be seen on Flickr and on Dave Ingram’s Natural History Blog.

A variety of unique and interesting plants can be found in the Wickaninnish Beach dunes.

This is the time of year to visit the dunes of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. While most visitors walk the endless sandy beaches that the park is famous for, fewer take the time to visit the unique and fragile dune ecosystem. During June and early July, the dunes are filled with the colour of blooming flowers.

Hopping between beach logs at the top of the shore, I followed a trail leading off into a broad expanse of dune. Intrigued, I soon arrived in a strange landscape, where wave-like slopes of sand rose and fell, with troughs between. Initially it seemed like a wasteland, until I happened upon a patch of dazzling yellow sand-verbena flowers.

Yellow Sand-verbena (Abronia latifolia) has a very pleasant fragrance.

Between barren tracts of sand I noticed more flowers, and clumps of grass. Tiny mouse tracks, and larger bird tracks crisscrossed the sand. There was life here, but what sort of life could survive on this barren sand dune?

Walking through a dune is like walking back through time. The journey begins at the high tide line, which is often marked by a line of dried seaweed and sea foam. Strong winds blow this material even higher on the beach, and provide nutrients for the first “pioneer” plants to take up residence.

Conditions on the dune are harsh. Winds shift the sand, and may bury plants, creating an unstable environment. Plants must be able to tolerate the abrasive effects of blowing sand and salt spray. Full exposure to the sun can create searing temperatures. Water drains quickly through the sand, and plants must have a means of preserving moisture.

Grasses are some of the plants able to survive these conditions. Dunegrass (Elymus mollis) is a large greyish green native grass with leaf blades about 1 cm wide. European beachgrass (Ammophila arenaria) was introduced to California in the late 1800’s as a sand stabilizer, and was brought to the west coast of Vancouver Island in the 1940’s. European beachgrass is a denser, more narrow-leaved grass that forms large tussocks. Sand blown in from the beach becomes trapped in the grass, causing the sand to stabilize around the plant. Once stabilized, other vegetation may move in.

European beachgrass, and American beachgrass, a similar introduced species, are changing dune ecology and having a negative effect on many native dune plants. Attempts have been made to remove these invaders, but it is not an easy process. They are anchored into the sand by very deep vertical roots, and long horizontal roots called rhizomes sprout new plants. Parks Canada is currently working to remove the non-native grass species in an attempt to return the dunes to their original condition.

Behind the pioneer plants, and the leading edge of grasses, other plants are able to survive on the more protected leeward slopes and troughs of the dunes. These plants have special adaptations to cope with difficult conditions. The yellow sand-verbena (Abronia latifolia) is a perennial that grows from a deep taproot, in low dense mats. The leaves are thick and fleshy, preventing water loss. Sticky hairs cover the entire plant, which adhere to particles of sand. The bright yellow flowers are very fragrant.

Beach morning-glory (Convolvulus soldanella) is one of many beautiful flowers that can be found in the dunes at Wickaninnish Beach.

Another colourful dune flower is the Beach morning-glory (Convolvulus soldanella). It has magical pink fluted flowers, streaked with white bloom from thick kidney-shaped leaves.

Beach-carrot (Glehnia littoralis) is adapted to a life in the sand.

Beach-carrot (Glehnia littoralis), a hardy perennial, has leaves that are wooly beneath causing water droplets to become trapped in the wooly hairs. Beach-carrot has robust corky seeds. In the fall these, and the seeds of many other dune plants, are strewn over the sand by the wind.

Large-headed Sedge (Carex macrocephala) has long spreading rhizomes that enable it to survive in the dunes.

Many other plants eke out an existence on the dune, including large-headed sedge (Carex macrocephala), black knotweed (Polygonum paronychia), and grey beach peavine (Lathyrus littoralis).

Grey Beach Peavine (Lathyrus littoralis) can be found growing on the edge of the dunes.

Going further back, the dunes become more stabilized, and the vegetation older and more established. Stems of kinnikinnick trail out over the sand. Salal, and stunted salt-tolerate Sitka spruce trees grow here. Finally, the forest encroaches, marking the end of the dune and the beginning of the rainforest, a completely different ecosystem.

Having traversed the dune, I had learned much about this unique and fragile environment. Many people walk through the Long Beach dunes every year, and trampling can have a significant impact. If entering the dune, take care not to step on these special plants.

The dramatic dunes of the surf pounded, wind whipped outer shores of our coast are only found at scattered locations in the province; such as the west coast of Vancouver Island, Cape Scott at the northern tip of Vancouver Island, and the eastern beaches of Graham Island on the Queen Charlotte Islands. Many dune plants are listed as rare in BC by the Conservation Data Center.

Different, flatter dune ecosystems also exist along the eastern coast of Vancouver Island. Due to development along the coast, these dunes have become scarce. Some of the above mentioned plants may be found at these sites.

Walking back along the beach, I thought about what a rich place Vancouver Island is. With the ocean, beaches, dunes, rain forests and mountains, there are a wealth of things to discover.

Need to Know:

• Access the dunes from the parking area at Wickaninnish Beach. A park use permit is required to visit Pacific Rim National Park Reserve.
• Parks Canada interpreters lead regular guided walks and beach grass pulls in the dunes. Check at the park information centers for the schedule.
• The dunes are a sensitive ecosystem – please use care when exploring it.

About the Contributors:

Jocie Ingram is a naturalist and writer based in the Comox Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of her nature writing can be found on her blog.

Dave Ingram is a nature photographer based on Vancouver Island. More of Dave his photographs can be viewed on his blog.

The gravel beach and rocky outcrops of South Beach in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve make it a dramatic destination.

I took advantage of the last couple of days of passable weather on the west coast of Vancouver Island to revisit one of my many favourite beaches in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. It’s only a short 800 meter walk from the Wickaninnish Centre to South Beach and there is much for the naturalist to see and experience. 

Bird song in the Sitka Spruce forest along the South Beach Trail includes the Orange-crowned Warbler, Song Sparrow and Fox Sparrow. There is good edge habitat in the flat section of the trail with thickets of Nootka Rose and Thimbleberry providing flowers that attract bees and Rufous Hummingbirds. Further up the hillside, Pacific-slope Flycatchers call and Chestnut-backed Chickadees forage among the high branches of the Sitka Spruce. In the early evening the song of one of my favourite birds, the Swainson’s Thrush begins to spiral upward. 

Nootka Rose (Rosa nutkana) grows along the South Beach Trail.

As a photographer and botanical enthusiast, my attention is drawn to the plants. Nootka Rose (Rosa nutkana) and Thimbleberry (Rubus parviflorus) are in full bloom but one has to be careful to avoid the new growth of Stinging Nettle when trying to get closer to the flowers. I knew that Stinging Nettle can sting but now I know what it feels like! The delicate pink flowers of Nootka Rose have a delightful fragrance that fills the air on a warm day. Also growing along the trail are the large leaves of Cow Parsnip, another plant that must be approached with care.

South Beach Trail in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve ascends through a tunnel of Sitka Spruce.

The South Beach Trail ascends on a wooden ramp through a tunnel of thick, stunted Sitka Spruce before reaching the top of a rise. In the damp dark section of trail at the top of the hill look for Skunk Cabbage, Lung Liverwort (Marchantia polymorpha), and Small-flowered Bulrush (Scirpus microcarpus). From here, a narrow cedar staircase descends down towards sound of the open ocean crashing against the rocks of South Beach. 

Villous Cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa) has beautiful yellow flowers and leathery woolly leaves.

South Beach is a curving pebble beach with dramatic rocky outcrops along its sides. For the botanist, these outcrops are the home of a number of very interesting plants. Villous Cinquefoil (Potentilla villosa) seems to grow out of the rock itself and its strongly scented bright yellow flowers contrast sharply against the dark stone. The leaves of this plant are distinctively white-wooly below and thick and leathery in texture, well suited for the exposure of these rocky bluffs. 

Growing in similar locations nearby is Coastal Strawberry (Fragaria chiloensis). It too has thick, leathery leaves but its flowers are white and seem to be scentless. The individual plants are anchored by thick rootstocks that are connected by runners. Coastal Strawberry is never found far from the sea. 

Delicate Nodding Onion (Allium cernuum) contrasts agains the rough stone.

The delicate Nodding Onion (Allium cernuum) can also be found in crevices on these rocky outcrops. This member of the Lily family has a tall nodding stalk with numerous small pink bell-shaped flowers. The basal leaves are grass-like and have a strong onion smell. 

Yellow Monkey-flower (Mimulus guttatus) can often be found in wet seeps on rocky outcrops.

On one of the larger outcrops enough soil has accumulated to support a thicket of Nootka Rose. However, on the lower exposed seeps great profusions of Yellow Monkey-flower (Mimulus guttatus) make a wonderful display. 

People have arranged rocks in decorative piles at South Beach.

These are just a few of the flowers in bloom on the South Beach Trail – there’s much more in bloom to inspire a second (or third) visit. To learn more about the ecology of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve make sure to stop in at the Wickaninnish Centre and talk with a Parks Canada Heritage Interpreter. Guided walks and informative nature programs begin on June 26. 

About the Contributor:

Dave Ingram is a nature photographer and writer based in the Comox Valley on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of his images can be seen on Flickr and on Dave Ingram’s Natural History Blog.

Early blooms of Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum) stand out against green leaves.

For those interested in botany and unusual plants it is often necessary to get off the beaten path and explore areas that are sometimes a little less accessible. Rhododendron Lake, just south of Parksville on Vancouver Island, British Columbia is one such destination.

At the end of a 13 km stretch of sometimes-rough gravel logging road is an isolated grove of Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum). While this shrub is common in Washington State and further south there aren’t many places in British Columbia where one can see Pacific Rhododendron. On Vancouver Island, Rhododendron Lake is one of only two locations where it can be found. On the mainland, Rhododendron Flats in Manning Park is an easily accessible place to see this gorgeous native shrub.

A moody sky at Rhododendron Lake south of Parksville on Vancouver Island, British Columbia.

Rhododendron Lake is somewhat challenging to get to. Just south of Parksville look for the entrance to Island Timberlands. Check in at the gate for a visitor’s permit and directions to the lake. Road conditions are fairly good for the first 9 kilometers but become rougher once you leave the main logging road. While the last 3 kilometers are doable with a compact car (I was driving a Toyota Corolla) using a vehicle with more clearance would be a lot less stressful. Some strategic driving to negotiate steep rough sections, washouts, deep ruts and rocky road is required and branches reaching out over the narrow road may scratch your vehicle. Better to find a friend with an old truck or SUV that can navigate the difficult road. Your other option is to park your vehicle where the narrow track to Rhododendron Lake leaves the main road and walk in.

Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum) in bud in early June.

A short rough trail leaves the parking area at Rhododendron Lake and works its way into the Pacific Rhododendron grove. Much of the land around the lake is wet and boggy. Western Bog-Laurel (Kalmia microphylla) is also in bloom at this time of year and it is worth keeping an eye open for other bog plants. The trail is very muddy in places and overgrown with lush Salal (Gaultheria shallon) but still passable.

The thick leathery leaves of Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum) are evergreen.

Pacific Rhododendron is one of two species of native rhododendron that grows on Vancouver Island. It has thick, leathery evergreen leaves that are elliptical in shape. The flowers are showy pink to rose-purple and bell-shaped with some spotting. The petals have a wavy edge to them. A second species of rhododendron can be found on Vancouver Island later in the year at higher elevations like Paradise Meadows in Strathcona Provincial Park. The more common White-flowering Rhododendron (R. albiflorum) has smaller white flowers and deciduous leaves that are yellowish-green in colour.

A fresh pink Pacific Rhododendron (Rhododendron macrophyllum) flower brightens a dull gray day at Rhododendron Lake.

For those wishing to view the Pacific Rhododendron in bloom now is the time to make one’s way to Rhododendron Lake. This shrub flowers late in the spring and is just coming into full bloom now in mid-June. Many plants are in bud and over the course of the next two weeks will come into spectacular flower. While it takes a bit of effort to get to the lake it is well worth it to experience this unique plant community on Vancouver Island.

Rhododendron Lake under late spring gray skies.

Getting There:

Click on the Google Map below to view a scrollable version.

Rhododendron Lake, Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Need to Know:

• Check in at the Island Timberlands gate for an access permit and directions to Rhododendron Lake
• Peak bloom time this year is the second and third week of June
• Keep an eye out for wildlife – both wolves and cougars have been reported in the area.
• The road is fairly rough and a vehicle with good clearance is recommended, especially for the last 3 kilometers

About the Contributor:

Dave Ingram is a nature photographer and writer based in the Comox Valley on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of his images can be seen on Flickr and on Dave Ingram’s Natural History Blog.

A pair of Monterey Sea Lemons (Doris montereyensis) meet in a bed of cup corals on the wall at Madrona Point.

On windy days like today when the Mud Bone is grounded, (our converted river boat doesn’t take too well to swells) we pick a shore dive like Madrona Point in Parksville for quick access to a host of sea life. I prefer to dive Madrona Point at high tide due to the slick entry point but if you have good balance in a tank and rubber boots it can be dove at high or low tides.

My partner and I gear up and clamber down the slippery rock shoot. After submerging we find ourselves in a bed of eelgrass, bull kelp and general weedy mayhem. This is the jungle of my ocean. I love to hang out in this stuff because it makes me feel like I’m diving in an aquarium. This is where schools of needlefish and perch swim and spindly little crabs hang onto swaying vegetation to feed on passing invertebrates.

A delicate looking Red Flabellina (Flabellina trophina) munches on a stick of sea grass.

Beautiful sunlight penetrates the shallow water near our entry point and makes me want to linger to make photos. If I stayed here at 10 feet, the deciding factor to end my dive would be from getting cold, not from lack of air (a tank of air can last hours in shallow water!) Alas, scuba diving is a buddy sport for safety reasons and it is hard to convince other divers to spend hours in shallow water, besides, we did come here to visit the wall, so using a compass bearing of 340, we head out over the sand towards it.

Just when I’m thinking I’ve missed the mark, the edge of the wall at Madrona Point begins to materialize out of the gloom. Today’s 15 foot visibility barely allows me to see my partner let alone a drop-off and I’m really hoping that the visibility will improve when I get deeper. It’s a common misconception to think diving is better in summer because of warmer temperatures; here on our coast warm temperatures bring ocean bloom that can be as thick as pea soup. I have been on dives where I could not see my gauges pressed to my mask until I dropped below the bloom at 30 feet and then it was dark.

A tiny version (approx 1 inch) of Leopard Dorid (Diaulula sandiegensis) munching on a kelp leaf.

I can always tell when I am nearing a reef or wall by the increase in the number of fish hanging around. This wall is no different and as my partner and I near it I begin to see lingcod, painted greenling and rockfish lying on the bottom. I swim out over the ledge and let the air out of my BCD (buoyancy compensator device) to “free fly” 40 feet to the bottom. During my decent I imagine I am Tom Cruise in Mission Impossible. I slow my fall just before hitting the silty bottom and avoid stirring up a cloud of silt.

The bright yellow mantle adds a dainty frill to Nananimo Nudibranch (Acanthodoris hudsoni).

Happily, visibility improves at depth and I can see part of the wall is covered in orange cup corals and is inhabited by tiny crabs and nudibranch (pronounced nudibrank). The delightfully brilliant splash of eye-candy orange bouncing back from my flashlight beam is only seconded by the sheer quantity of creatures. I spy one of my favorite critters and zoom in on a nudibranch for a better look.

Nudibranch are found all over the world and come in sizes from as tiny as ¼ inch to over a foot long. They are the slugs of the sea and come in an astounding array of colors and shapes. This one is a couple inches long, bright lemon yellow, has bumpy skin and since I have been careful not to frighten it, it’s delicate fan of gills still extends from it’s rear. Their scientific name is Nudibranchia; which actually means “naked gills”.

A lacy nest of nudibranch eggs is nestled among soft corals.

These little guys spend their day munching on sponge and grasses and are usually found at depths less than 100 feet. As hermaphrodites they are both male and female as required and after deciding who is who, their dainty egg sacs are laid in a spiraling ribbon that sort resembles a flower. A few such flowers punctuate this wall and I inspect them all for my viewing pleasure. As my dive time runs low I begin to ascend and come eye level with a stone ridge covered in an army of frilly shawlback nudibranch munching furiously on the vegetation. They look like fuzzy lollipops tossed over the edge of a passing boat embedded in the sea bottom.

When our waters are soupy and the light is low I look more closely for the small stuff and I have never yet been disappointed. There are larger creatures like octopus and wolf eel somewhere along this wall but today I am captivated by the microscopic.

Need to Know:

• Shore Dive
• Experience level – all divers
• At the end of Madrona Drive is the parking lot with room for about four cars (see map below).

Map to Parking area at Madrona Point, Parksville, British Columbia

About the Contributor:

Lisa Graham of Seadance Photography is a freelance photographer who specializes in the underwater realm. Based in the Comox Valley you can visit her website at www.seadance.ca for her full portfolio.

Tree Island from Longbeak Point on Denman Island

When is an island not an island? When you can walk to it – at low tide! You won’t find the name Tree Island on many maps – but ask someone from the Comox Valley, and they will refer you to Sandy Island – the Marine Provincial Park so close to the northern tip of Denman Island that you can walk over at low tide.

Sandy Island Marine Provincial Park actually includes other small islands called the Seal Islets, all surrounded by white sand beaches and shell middens. Sandy Island itself is about 33 ha. The entire park is about 118 ha – the size varies with the tide levels!

About 8000 or 9000 years ago, this sandy archipelago was connected to Willemar Bluffs on the Comox Peninsula with a bank of dunes, forming a ‘super-estuary’ between Denman and Vancouver Island. The waters are now known as Comox Bay & Baynes Sound, and the submerged sandbar that remains, the Comox Bar, is still tricky to navigate at low tide.

At the centre of sandy Tree Island, a stand of Douglas fir hosts an active bald eagle nest, as well as forest birds such as nuthatches, chickadee, towhee, and Pacific slope flycatchers, orange-crowned warbler, and yellow-rumped warbler in spring.

Red-flowering Currant (Ribes sanguineum)

The meadows’ colours of pink, purple, yellow, and white are presented by different flowers as spring progress. In April, those blossom colours are red-flowering currant, blue-eyed Mary, goldstar and woodland star. Near the northern end of Tree Island, a prominent red-flowering currant is actually visible from Union Bay across Baynes Sound.

Seablush (Plectritis congesta)

Field Chickweed (Cerastium arvense)

By May, the meadows are seablush accompanied by larkspur, Indian consumption plant and chickweed. The southern meadows of the island are predominantly pink with sea-blush, while the northern meadows are mostly purple with larkspur. The white flowers of miner’s lettuce alternate as accents with the yellow flowers of Oregon grape and field mustard. A scattering of chocolate lilies, with their own yellow highlights, grow in the woods.

Chocolate Lily (Fritillaria lanceolata)

A field of Menzies' Larkspur (Dlephinium menziesii).

Notable for birders are the multitude of seabirds that congregate here, during migration but also year-round: Brant geese, scoters, herons, loons, harlequin, shorebirds of all kinds. In May, the call of killdeer is constant in the meadows. Their oval eggs on the ground would be virtually invisible if not for the occasional broken shell revealing the blue interior. A smaller plover among the killdeer in the mudflats is a semi-palmated sandpiper. Among the numerous gulls, migrating Caspian terns stand out visibly and audibly, with their large orange bills and raucous calls.

Killdeer egg - a sign of nesting birds on Tree Island.

Meadow birds include golden-crowned & savannah sparrows. White-crowned sparrows sing repeatedly from every bush – interestingly, in a slightly different ‘dialect’ than those in the Comox Valley! A few black-tailed deer browse the perimeter of the meadows – the lower branches of shrubs have been cleared to a noticeable demarcation height. More elusive animals such as otter leave only footprints in the sand.

Deman and Hornby Island from Tree Island

While not always an island, Tree Island is always both treed and sandy – a sensitive ecosystem of rare and fragile plants and animals.

Need to Know:

• Tree Island is accessible by foot at tides lower than 2.5 m. Public access is from the end of Gladstone Way on Denman. Hike 2.8 km along the shore north to Longbeak Point, then another 1 km across the sand flats to Tree Island. The nearest boat launch is from Union Bay 4.5 km to the south-west.
• There is no fresh water on the island, and fires are prohibited.
• Because of its proximity to CFB Comox, you may find smoke canisters from military exercises – these should not be disturbed but reported to 250-339-8211.

About the Contributor:

Krista Kaptein is an intermittent hiker, naturalist, writer, & photographer based in the Comox Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of her interests can be found on her blog.

Somass Estuary in the Alberni Valley on Vancouver Island, British Columbia.

I recently ran across a couple at Victoria Quay in Port Alberni. They had the tell-tale sign of a birder and a visitor – binoculars hanging from their necks and hanging around the signs by the Somass River. I approached them and they started asking about how to get to the bird sanctuary on the other side.

I’ve written about the sanctuary, that is, the Somass Estuary Project before on my blog (A Birder’s Site Guide for the Somass Estuary, Vancouver Island) but I realized, in talking to them, that there are quite a number of other places to find birds in the Valley. Here are my top five birding locations in the Alberni Valley.

1. The Somass Estuary

This area is an excellent place to look for birds. It is best in the winter when the waterfowl are wintering. However summer birding is also good. For a detailed guide to it you can follow the link provided above.

Trail access into the Somass Estuary, Alberni Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia.

2. Kitsuksis Dyke

This is the most easily accessible spot where you can find decent birding in the Alberni Valley. Kitsuksis Creek flows into the Somass River just beside the Clutesi Haven Marina which you drive by on Highway 4 on your way to the West Coast. The easiest way to visit is to take the right fork just after the little bridge over the creek and park just past the restaurant on the right.

Kitsuksis Dyke, Port Alberni, Vancouver Island, British Columbia.

I have created a map from Google to show the route. The entire route is paved and located on a dyke that was created after the tsunami in 1964. I have marked the main route in red. In green are interesting alternatives. The creek is tidal up to the Gertrude Street Bridge. Across from the Marina is a swampy little wood where I suspect the beaver I often see there lives. The entire creek is lined with willow and there are wooded areas mainly on the west side of the walkway and upstream from the Gertrude Street bridge. There are two foot bridges at the top and at the bottom. Recently a trail has been built from the upstream pavement as far as the railway trestle to a little falls where a strong run of Coho now exists thanks to dedicated efforts of a salmon enhancement group.

The entire walkway is very good for warblers like Orange-crowned, Black-throated Grey and Wilson’s in the spring. In the summer, this area is one of the few areas on Vancouver Island where you can find Green Herons. And of course, there are a variety of sparrows, towhees, juncos and a resident Merlin. In the winter, it’s a good idea to walk up to the little pond where you often find Ring-necked ducks among others.

3. Burde Street Ponds

Located on the east edge of Port Alberni, there are two beautiful little ponds that I enjoy visiting at any time of year. To get to them, you need to take the left fork as you arrive in town off the hill. You will pass the Visitor Information Centre on your right. Follow the road past the West Coast General Hospital and take a left on 17th, 16th or if you miss them 15th Avenue and go a couple of blocks to Burde Street. Turn right and drive past to the 4-way stop sign and past the subdivision on your left. Look for a small parking area with a yellow gate on the left. Park here or across the street if it is full. You will be at one access point to the Log Train Trail. About 100 meters in there is a short path up off the rail grade that will take you to a good view of the lower pond. In June, it is a magnificent place when the Yellow Flag Iris is in bloom. It’s very invasive, but beautiful. This pond and the upper one are excellent places to find Wood Ducks, Bufflehead, Lesser Scaup, and Hooded Mergansers in season. From time to time, you may also see the beaver that make their home in the upper pond. Herons and Belted Kingfishers are also possible here. All along the rail grade, you will encounter a very good variety of forest birds.

Burde Street Ponds, Port Alberni, British Columbia.

After you return to the rail grade, about 100 meters further on look for a trail leading east up off the rail grade. It will take you through the older second-growth forest into a 10-year-old cut block with mostly Red Alder regenerating. The path leads up to the second pond which has a couple of good access points to see what is on the pond. The beaver lodge is easily visible and there is a short side trail to the beaver dam! The path loops back to Burde Street along the logging access road through the young alder and Douglas fir. You’ll find White-crowned Sparrows, MacGillivray’s and Orange-crowned Warblers here as well as Red-breasted Sapsucker in the older fringe of trees along the ponds.

4. McCoy Lake Area

McCoy Lake is a broad shallow lake surrounded by private property and Indian Reserve. The reserve side is undeveloped and consists of swampy bog. The west side is swampy farmland. Bring a spotting scope if you want to see what is on the lake.

McCoy Lake, Port Alberni, Vancouver Island, British Columbia.

This area is interesting in any season. The lake is one of the few places on Vancouver Island where you can reliably find Ruddy ducks in winter. The winter rains create flooding around the perimeter of the lake and attract a good variety of ducks and raptors as well as Wilson’s Snipe, and Killdeer. The open fields attract thousands of migrating Savannah Sparrows, American Pipits and sometimes interesting shorebirds like Whimbrel and Pectoral Sandpipers in the spring and fall. The summer sees good populations of four species of swallows; Violet-green, Tree, Cliff and Barn. This is partly thanks to Bill Thompson Sr. who built twenty or so swallow boxes around his house when he was alive.

To get there, drive up River Road from Port Alberni along the Somass River to the grey iron bridge. After going over the bridge look for the second left turn onto McCoy Lake Road about 500 meters further on around the bend. The road will take you up past the road to the local landfill and then the view opens up when you get to the agricultural area. The road will bend to the right. There will be a turn off onto Stirling Arm Drive. Don’t take the turn but continue straight. You will go past an old farm, across a small creek and up onto a knoll with a house on it. This is the most productive area. There are a couple of turnout spots in the area. But the whole road is a good area to walk along. You can continue along this road until you meet highway 4 again.

5. Taylor River Estuary

The Taylor River flows into the west end of Sproat Lake. The mouth of it has many side channels and sloughs. The vegetation is dominated by alder and salmonberry. Interestingly, a major part of the estuary contains a patch of deciduous old growth that survived the 1967 fire that burned the entire end of the valley. This is extremely unusual. The riparian character of the area below the river contrasts sharply with the hillsides dominated by second-growth Douglas fir. And the views of the surrounding mountains are wonderful. The bird life here is prolific in the summer months but pretty quiet during the winter.

Taylor River Estuary

Finding this area is easy. Follow Highway 4 westward out of Port Alberni. There is a turnoff to the left 20 km past the West Bay Hotel, the last commercial establishment before you get to the Tourist Info Centre at Pacific Rim. Immediately, you will have to choose between a left or right turn. Right leads to a very popular unofficial camping area. Along the road, there is a view of the mouth of the river where you may see Hooded Mergansers, Wood Ducks and perhaps a Common Loon. The dense shrubbery contains Wilson’s, Yellow, Black-throated Grey, Orange-crowned and MacGillivrays’ warblers as well as Common Yellowthroats, Warbling Vireos and even a Red-eyed Vireo if you are lucky. Going the other way takes a short distance to where the road is ditched, making any further progress by car impossible. Half a kilometer up is an old bridge. From it, you may see a Spotted Sandpiper, or Common Mergansers. A Dipper is also possible here. On the other side is a junction where the road runs back to the lake or west to Highway 4.

Back at the initial turnoff, you can also turn right and follow the road up the mountain side. This road has been deactivated and so don’t try to drive this one. However, a short walk up it leads to a rocky bluff where there is a good view of a little pond you can see from the highway. A longer hike takes you up the side of the valley to some dead trees remaining from the fire I mentioned. This area has become a good place for woodpeckers and for Band-tailed Pigeons.

There are a number of other places to bird in the Alberni Valley. Sproat Lake Provincial Park, Mulcaster Slough or Swamp, McLean Mill, and Turtle Lake are some others. In fact, there are so many lakes, swamps, bluffs, and trails around the area that you are bound to find some other interesting places on your own. These places are offered just to get you started.

About the Contributor:

Long-time Vancouver Island resident, Sandy McRuer, runs Rainbird Excursions, an ecotourism and sightseeing business in the Port Alberni & Qualicum Beach area. He is an ex-forester and avid birder. More of his images can be found on Flickr.

Dramatic skies at Goose Spit, Comox, British Columbia.

Often the reason a destination is popular has little to do with the superb natural features of an area. Such is the case with Goose Spit Park in Comox, on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. Usually portrayed as “the” place to enjoy the sunset and an evening beach fire, Goose Spit has much more to offer the curious naturalist.

The parking lot at the far end of Hawkins Road just before it enters HMCS Quadra is an excellent starting place for a dune botanical exploration. Walking west along the beach a number of plants in the pea family (Fabaceae) can be found above the high tide line and among the driftwood logs.

Seashore Lupin (Lupinus littoralis)

At this time of year, Beach Pea (Lathyrus japonicus) is in bloom as are two species of lupin – Seashore Lupin (Lupinus littoralis) and Tree Lupin (L. arboreus). The former is a native species, the latter has been introduced from California, possibly in an attempt to stabilize the shoreline. A third pea that is readily visible is the invasive Scotch Broom (Cystisus scoparius).

When the buildings of the base end, the dunes start to open up. A training obstacle course runs through the center of dune habitat and climbing walls and other apparatus are readily visible. This sandy area is spectacular for early and late spring blooms and many of early the plants are still in bloom at this time of year (although many are also going to seed as well).

Be mindful that this is extremely sensitive habitat and very significant since it is only one of four locations in BC where the endangered Sand-verbena moth is known to exist. Fortunately, much of the dunes are within DND lands and access is prohibited. It is still possible to find and enjoy most of the plants in the narrow strip between the high tide line and the DND boundary.

Watch for the leaves of Yellow Sand-verbena (Abronia latifolia). Some of these plants were transplanted as part of the recovery plan for the Sand-verbena Moth.

Gold Star (Crocidium multicaule)

Other typical dune plants include Gold Star (Crocidium multicaule), a beautiful yellow aster that is just finishing blooming at this time of year – both flowers and seed heads can be found.

Pink Microsteris (Microsteris gracilis)

Pink Microsteris (Microsteris gracilis) is another delicate dune plant common at Goose Spit. Its small pink flowers have five petals and while the plant has a weedy look it is actually a native species.

Black Knotweed (Polygonum paronychia)

Black Knotweed (Polygonum paronychia) grows in the dunes as well. It has a prostrate, shrubby look with thick leaves that are rolled under. The flowers of this plant are white to pink and clustered in the upper leaf axils.

These are just a few of the flowers that can be seen at Goose Spit in the spring and early summer. With a little care, this rare and sensitive ecosystem can be explored and the natural beauty of the flora of the dunes, so often missed by the casual beach walker, experienced and appreciated.

About the Contributor:

Dave Ingram is a nature photographer and writer based in the Comox Valley on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of his images can be seen on Flickr and on Dave Ingram’s Natural History Blog.

Island of Rainbows

The name Sointula, the Malcolm Island community of utopian origin off northern Vancouver Island, translates as ‘Place of Harmony’ – but it might equally be called ‘Place of Rainbows’. A frequency of rainbows of course means an abundance of rain, of which Malcolm Island receives over 150 cm annually – but the south facing shore of the island also captures the evening sun to create rainbows, as the clouds clear over Port McNeill opposite, across Broughton Strait.

The hyper-maritime climate is also indicated by the abundance of hemlock, spruce & cedar – Douglas Fir which grows in a drier climate is rare on Malcolm Island. Dense stands of second growth forest alternate with wet pockets of marsh, swamp and bog in the island’s interior.

Moody Forest

A gravel road runs the entire 24 km length of the island from the Pulteney Point Lighthouse on the west end to Donegal Head at the east. At Pulteney Point, Malcolm Island is at its closest point to Vancouver Island, and bears have been known to swim across from the Cluxewe River estuary north of Port McNeill. The north shore of Malcolm Island faces Queen Charlotte Strait, home of dolphins, humpback whales, and orca which use the beaches for rubbing.

First logged by Finnish settlers in the early 1900’s for homesteads around Sointula, the majority of the island was logged in later decades and continues to be logged today. Gravel roads provide access to high points of the island with views of the Coast Mountains, though the rapid growth of re-planted trees will soon obscure the view.
Two nature trails established within the last dozen years offer contrasting experiences of the island. The Beautiful Bay Trail, 5 km (one way) from Bere Point on the north shore, has been cut through a dense salal forest and downed trees from a windstorm that occurred just a couple of years after the trail was built. In calmer weather, sea birds including scoters, grebes, loons, harlequin, cormorant, pigeon guillemot, bufflehead, and red-breasted merganser should be common, as well as shorebirds such as dunlin and western sandpiper. A viewing stand near the start of the trail was constructed to offer views of orca off the rubbing beach.

Hemlock Varnish Shelf (Ganoderma tsugae) grows out of old stumps.

The 3.2 km (one-way) Mateoja Heritage Trail in the island’s interior passes through dense second growth hemlock, alternating with bogs with acid-loving plants and bizarre candelabra snags, which look like nature’s totems. Bald eagles perch on the snags and woodpeckers can be heard among the dead trees. Areas of mistletoe infestation have created small clearings in the woods. The trail passes the site of an old homestead, ponds and a marsh on the way to Big Lake – the local swimming hole, but not actually the biggest lake on the island!

Birding at Big Lake on Malcolm Island.

Among the colourful houses and weathered boat sheds of the town of Sointula itself, other birds are common around the quiet streets: Eurasian collared dove, rufous & Anna’s hummingbirds, savannah, fox, song, white-crowned, golden-crowned and house sparrows, house finches, and red crossbills. Ten years ago, a small but enthusiastic group of birders on Malcolm Island started an annual spring bird count at the end of April in the memory of Doug Innes, a teacher who retired to the Comox Valley and pursued research on the red-throated loon and Townsend’s warbler, both frequent on Malcolm Island. Several years ago a Lapland longspur, rare to the island, was seen on the count, and gleefully disputed by visiting birders from Port McNeill and the Comox Valley.

A ‘rainbow’ of birds seems to arrive the same weekend as the bird count: violet-green swallows join orange-crowned, yellow-rumped, black-throated gray, and Townsend’s warblers; as spring arrives on Malcolm Island.

Need to Know:

• For the utopian history of the island, check out ‘Sointula:Island Utopia’ by Paula Wild

About the Contributor:

Krista Kaptein is an intermittent hiker, naturalist, writer, & photographer based in the Comox Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. More of her interests can be found on her blog.